Friday, August 1, 2014

Tales of a Seaside Inn - Five


Tales of a Seaside Inn continues below from Part Four in August.

... Martin Johnson Heade.


"Mikey, I gotta priority project. Top secret. Hush hush and all that." Mike raised his eyebrows. That stupid talk could only mean that some broad was involved, but he owed him one, although this was strictly speaking against naval policy.

He disappeared into the small stifling darkroom next to the reeking fuel bunkers. As he swished the developer tray the image of Ensign Hector Morris, USN appeared, seemingly standing on a wave in the waters of the Pacific.

Hector and Justine wrote each other daily, sometimes several times, throughout the rest of the war. Long letters passed in an unbroken flow between Broken Bow and the Cassin Young, although often going astray and not arriving, lost on the seas to the fog of war.

In the passage of time Hector, his date of demob finally set, proposed and Justine accepted at once, for by now she too had long been certain they must marry. A date was set in Broken Bow, to which he took the first train smoking when the ship finally berthed in San Diego.

They were married at a little church at a crossroads out on the prairie. She wore the white dress in the snapshot and Tom was his best man.

As a wedding present, Tom hired a photographer from Omaha. She arrived in a red 1941 Packard station wagon, road-worn and dust-covered that looked like it had been down every highway and byway in Nebraska. In fact, it almost had, to photograph high school classes, college graduations, county fairs, political rallies, funerals, cattle drives and weddings - plus following her personal passion of photographing the prairie before it and the small hollowed-out towns all disappeared.

The Packard was groaning with paraphenalia - cameras, tripods, lenses, lights, backdrops, ladders - all the impedimenta a professional might require. Tom walked her to the little rise behind the church where mamma's original photograph had been taken, she nodded and then extracted the biggest camera anyone had ever seen from the back of the car, a beautifully crafted teak and brass construction with a lens the size of a softball, a black skirt that hung behind its back and screwed to a rugged oak tripod.

It was quite intimidating, as if she were going into battle and real shooting might resume.

One imagined such strange things as the war was winding down. Rumors, and not unreasonable ones, were already flying that the next 'big one' might be fought against Russia, our largest ally from the one just ending. We might forever be a world at war, with our friends as the next enemies and our current foes as our next front line allied against them. And the weapons of that war, it was clear, would be far more terrifying, bigger than the atomic bombs used against Japan which brought Hector and Tom home alive from a possible hell in the Pacific, bad enough as it had been.

But the photographer had a voice with a musical French accent and almost balletic motions seeming to suggest that flowing through life with grace, ease and precision was a natural part of her job.

Soon everyone else was at ease too, laughing at their fears and enjoying the bigness of the little moment about to be recorded forever.

The newlyweds stood together on the little rise with the prairie grass waving at their feet, she in the white dress, Hector beside her in his full navy dress uniform, gazing down at the wedding guests and now out toward the horizon under a sky of billowing cumulus. The lady disappeared under the black cloth several times and there they were, arm in arm together, standing atop a wave on an endless ocean, lost in the clouds for all eternity.

The deed and the long day done, with much weeping, wailing and kissing of kin, they caught another eastbound train and rode it until it ran out of tracks by the Atlantic, then a local line up to Rowley.

They obviously wasted no time in getting down to the rhythm of the rails. Nine months later there I was, swinging in a cradle suspended from a bough of one of the tall elms flanking the front of the inn, rocking happily like a dory in a tideway to the flickering light filtered through the leaves on an ocean of wind.

Three years after, Patience arrived and three later Herb. Who's appearance, I suspect, was a bit impromptu and unplanned. Not that, given a choice, he'd ever have had it any other way, these words practically define my brother.

But by then Justine had finally assumed command of a demanding kitchen after a long, often fraught apprenticeship under Hector's mother. Wilhelmina reluctantly retired from the field of battle nearing ninety, buried clutching her stained, war-torn copy of Fannie Farmer. I don't think Herb was exactly in the cards.

He was an attentive and apt, I'd almost say rapt, pupil from an early age. Perched on a high chair in a corner of the kitchen, he absorbed, ate and studied all that Justine had to offer - with a curious but critical eye. By seven he was our part-time, after-school, sous chef and in his teens it appeared to both of them that the apprentice had now overtaken the master.

But he was restless, wanted more, like most of us, and joined the navy. Which is sort of a family tradition, a calling of the sea; either that, the merchant marine or commercial fishing.

Armed with his recipes from the Saltmarsh Inn, he captained galleys and manned gun stations on several ships patrolling the Vietnam littoral and deltas as that sad war finally wound down to less than nothing. Futility, a mere blip to be forgotten on the radar screen of futurity.

Before forgetting he gave it plenty of thought, however. But before we hear his thinking, though, I'd like to say a few words about and for sailors in general.

Sailors, in my experience - which, as Thoreau cautions us, must necessarily be limited and partial - are among the most thoughtful and well-read of people. Which is probably the polar opposite of what most landsmen, if anything, imagine.

But consider - ocean passages take time. They are journeys through time as much as space, as one soon becomes aware when taking to the sea. One of the things that seamen have that's denied most landsmen is plenty of time to think things over on long lonely watches - and read widely. Yes, even wisely, because depth is required upon on the deep. Shallows are quickly apparent and to be avoided as dangerous wastes of time on passage.

Sailors are immersed in the poetry of reality, that is to say, face to face with nature - whether bearing her beauty or baring her fangs. And so they tend to love, read and recite poetry, which, with science, is our language to talk about the natural world.

Good reading can lead to good writing and good writing certainly requires good reading. As a result, many seamen are excellent writers as well. Why? Voyages or tours of duty may last weeks, maybe months. Letters, or nowadays emails, are frequently the only contact they have with family and friends for long periods of time.

In the days of sail - hunting whales or trading with China - voyages might even take years. So when you wrote, you wanted to get it right - and still do. It was a point of pride and love, which didn't diminish by oceans of separation or the seas of time.

In fact, to quote one of Captain Leander's favorite maxims, of which he had an ample supply for any situation, "Absinthe maketh the heart grow fonder." And it still doth.

Another thing to consider is that seamen are also citizens of the world. Almost all great cities on earth have a seaport or a deep navigable river leading to them from the ocean. At one time or another he, or increasingly she, will touch at many of them, some over and over as if visiting old friends. Sailors are true cosmopolitans, tolerant of, and by necessity students of, the scope and strangeness of human nature, enjoying an unending education. So let's put to rest the sad calumny that sailors are stupid, drunks and lechers. There are no dumb sailors - except dead ones. Homer, Sir Francis Drake, Herman Melville, Joshua Slocum, Joseph Conrad, Jack London, Erskine Childers, Samuel Elliot Morrison, Alaine Gerbault, Ernest Hemingway, Jacques Cousteau, Tristan Jones, Patrick O'Brien and William F. Buckley - all tell a different tale. And with that, I've said my piece. For now.

Another thing to consider is that seamen are also citizens of the world. Almost all great cities on earth have a seaport or a deep navigable river leading to it from the ocean. At one time or another he, or increasingly she, will touch at many of them, some over and over as if visiting old friends. Sailors are true cosmopolitans, tolerant of, and by necessity students of, the scope and strangeness of human nature, enjoying an unending education.

So let's put to rest the sad calumny that sailors are stupid, drunks and lechers. There are no dumb sailors - except dead ones. Homer, Sir Francis Drake, Herman Melville, Joshua Slocum, Joseph Conrad, Jack London, Erskine Childers, Samuel Elliot Morrison, Alaine Gerbault, Ernest Hemingway, Jacques Cousteau, Tristan Jones, Patrick O'Brien and William F. Buckley - all tell a different tale. And with that, I've said my piece. For now.

What Herb had to say took time. Hector was even slower to speak and only opened up about 'his war', a lifetime earlier, after Herb had. Maybe that's typical. The guys who saw the real shit go down really didn't want to talk about it. They wanted to forget in fact, get on with their lives and seize back the time war had stolen from them.

Were they wounded? Yes. Hector narrowly survived a kamikaze attack, drowning after being swept overboard in a typhoon and a shell explosion in his gun turret. None of which he mentioned in his letters to Justine. I have two large bundles of them, his and hers, in the cabin behind the inn where I retreat to write. Not a word. There were battles mentioned, yes, but with no real details and seemingly lots of sunny tropical sailing with shore leave in between. Which I doubt.

Hector carried shrapnel from the suicide attack in his left shoulder from then on. Doctors of the day considered it too deep and dangerous to remove, so it remained. And it would cause him an agony of aching again and again. He told us it was from a bicycle accident he'd had on one of the narrow Rowley dirt roads. And of course kids believe anything uncritically, although they do harbor their unspoken, even unthought, suspicions.

Herb was luckier in his war, partly because medical treatment, like much of technology, had advanced so far in the wake of two world wars. In great part because of them. Yes, war teaches many lessons. Most benignly, how to save those who must wage war. But mostly lessons we never knew we needed to know, and might be happier overall for not knowing, although I suppose evil can be converted to good in some cases.

Vietnam was a far lower intensity war, of course, a series of jungle skirmishes by comparison. Herb came through relatively unscathed, although he hovered near death for days at one time from malaria contracted in the Mekong.

But does anyone come through war unscathed? Observing my dad and brother (and other sailors I've served with), I think not. Both bore scars. Mental ones, if not physical, below the surface, kept hidden out of sight, especially from impressionable children, for whom reality is such a tenuous concept anyway.

Hector's was a just and noble, a global war, that's true. Clearly a war that had to be fought, against massive, mechanized stupidity, cruelty and greed. No doubt. All war is a crime, however, waged for whatever noble motives and by whatever means.

There are no war crimes. War itself is the crime. There are no war criminals. All the participants are culpable criminals. Some go on trial at the conclusion of the conflict, but the war itself goes on trial well after the fact in the craven court of history.

Where, even with the perspective of time, the best one can do is shake one's head and wonder, "what the fuck was that all about?" A valid question with no real answer. Only silence can withstand such a frontal assault. Somewhat. With never any firm verdicts, the guilt falling so freely on all sides.

Herb's war was different, although it was a difference without any real distinction. War is war, and like all stupidity everywhere it tends to wear one common boring mask with only slightly shifting shadings of disguise.

War is diplomacy by other means. A nicety for when the niceties of diplomacy break down in the hands of our chosen, or unchosen, leaders. 'Means' means killing - death, destruction, crippling, rape, plunder and terror. That's what war means. That is both its costs and bottom line, exquisitely fused. It is what it is. You can't put lipstick on the war pig.


Tales of a Seaside Inn continues with Part Six in September

Saltmarsh Inn Menus - August 2014


The dinner menu at the Saltmarsh Inn changes daily and features one fixed set of dishes. This keeps things interesting for both the customers, chef and also allows us to serve wonderful food with our small kitchen and staff. Given our style and limitations, we offer no vegetarian, vegan, kosher, gluten-free or no-salt menu items. For those on such diets, the closest options available are in Newburyport or Ipswich, short scenic rides either north or south.

Dinner is served from 5:00 to 8:00 pm, seven days a week. Breakfast, from 6:00 to 8:00 am, consists of: coffee/tea, toasted blueberry or corn muffins with butter and fresh fruit salad. We don't do lunch.

A recipe from the day or comment is included after each menu. Some go into detail, others are simply a list of ingredients with the preparation: braise, saute, ceviche, salad, etc., noted. Clearly, this won't suit some cooks. It should, however, be sufficient for professional or advanced home cooks. Some comments are simply links (with credit line) to the best recipes that we've discovered online. Bon appetit!


August 1 ... Yankee pot roast w/root vegetables, baked stuffed tomatoes, green garden salad.

Herb baked stuffed tomatoes ... Courtesy of Giada De Laurentiis.


August 2 ... Basque fish stew w/garlic croutons & apple aioli, classic salad, Reisling, Trimbach, Alsace, France.

Basque fish stew ... Courtesy of Pierre Franey.


August 3 ... Vegetable stuffed hamburgers, petits farcis: stuffed zucchini, peppers, onions, tomatoes; Flano.

Flano ... A crisp white wine from Puglia in southern Italy with notes of peach and pineapple.


August 4 ... Salade Lyonnaise, Gruyere potato gratin, codfish ceviche.

Ceviche ... Marinate slices of codfish for 30 m. in fresh lemon juice w/ zest, red onions, parsley, coriander, celery, jalapenos.


August 5 ... Grilled Loukinakio (Greek sausage), Greek salad w/grilled feta, orzo pilaf w/pine nuts, Mavrodaphne cooler.

Wine cooler ... Mavrodaphne (a sweet Greek wine), quinine water, lemon slices, ice.


August 6 ... Seafood crepes, green salad, vichyssoise, peach shortcake.

Vichyssoise ... Courtesy of Epicurious, September 1962. Julia Child refers to this soup, which everyone assumes is French, as, "an American invention." Maybe so, but its roots are clearly French in the French soil. A fast and easy, 4-star recipe.


August 7 ... Grilled skewers of marinated lamb, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, green peppers; rice pilaf, leafy green salad, peach cobbler w/whipped cream.

Lamb marinade ... 1 cup Greek yogurt, 2 tbs lemon juice, 1 tsp lemon zest, 1 cup chopped fresh mint, 2 large minced garlic cloves, 1 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon, 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper, 1/4 tsp ground allspice. For approx. 2 lbs. lamb marinated 4 hours in fridge.


August 8 ... Lobster rolls, green salad, clam broth.

Lobster roll ... Steamed lobster, freshly-made mayo, lemon juice, celery, onion, parsley, S&P, on a buttered toasted hot dog bun.


August 9 ... Grilled lamb sausages w/fresh mint sauce, Boston baked beans, corn on the cob, steamers.

Steamers ... Sam Adams Summer Lager, butter, shallots, parsley.


August 10 ... Lobster ravioli, grilled zucchini, Gewurtztraminer.

Lobster ravioli ... Thanks to 'Lilly's Gastronomia Italiana', Boston, MA.


August 11 ... Jugged hare w/wild boar sausage, grilled cucumbers w/smoked bluefish pate.

Cucumbers ... Almost any food is amenable to grilling. A grilled Caesar salad is a surprising delight. But cucumbers, who knew?
Ingredients: 12 pickling cucumbers, 1/3 cup EVO, 1/3 cup red wine vinegar, 2 tbs minced garlic, pinch of salt.
Preparation: Quarter the cukes longitudinally, Mix other ingredients in a large bowl and marinate the cukes for 15 minutes or so. Grill over a medium flame for 10 minutes or so, turning now and then. Serve with bluefish pate or other dip.


Saltmarsh Inn August 12 ... Shrimp, scallop & corn chowder, artichokes w/lemon aioli, cheddar/chili spider cakes, watermelon granita.

Chowder ... Shrimp, scallops, salt pork, celery, leeks, corn kernels, potatoes; stock: shrimp & fish parts, corn cobs, ham bone and root vegetables; white wine, hot paprika, thyme, cream, light miso.


August 13 ... Grilled miso, juniper berry & peppercorn - marinated pork chops, butter beans, turnip greens, flan.

Butter beans ... Cook beans until tender, drain. Toss with butter, then lime juice. Fold in mint, season with S&P, top with lime zest.


August 14 ... Caouane (Creole snapping turtle soup), eggplant souffle, couscous & tomato salad.

Israeli couscous & tomato salad.


August 15 ... Grilled marinated shark, onion & green pepper kebabs, orzo pilaf; grilled romaine, preserved lemon & sun-dried tomato salad w/Creole vinaigrette, pineapple upside down cake.

Orzo pilaf ... Simplicity itself. Orzo simmered in chicken stock (in the amount for water and for the time suggested on the package). Stir in sliced scallions and grated Parmesan w/S&P to taste.


August 16 ... Grilled tuna steaks, stewed collards, cheddar cornbread sticks, snail-stuffed deviled eggs.

Collards ... Collect and wash fresh greens: collards, kale, turnip, mustard, chard, etc. Strip out tough center stems and chop leaves roughly. Combine them in a large pot with: chopped onions, garlic, hot peppers and smoked ham hocks. Add: chicken stock, dry white wine, soy sauce, ketchup, thyme, Tabasco sauce, freshly ground black pepper and water to cover. Simmer covered for 2 or 3 hours. Remove hocks, cut off meat, return to pot and serve.


August 17 ... Pan-seared scallops on wild mushroom polenta, stinging nettle soup, citrus & Cointreau salad.

Stinging nettle soup ... Nettles do indeed sting, so handle them with gloves of some sort. Toss a pound or so into a kettle of boiling salted water for a few minutes to tame their bite. Drain, rinse, cut out tough stems and chop leaves coarsely.

Saute a diced onion in EVO. Add 1/4 cup rice, 1 quart chicken stock and the nettles. Bring to a boil, then simmer covered for 15 minutes or so. Puree in a food processor. Season with S&P. Serve with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt on top.


August 18 ... Grilled loukaniko, rice pilaf, white asparagus w/ Hollondaise, Mavrodaphne fruit salad.

Fruit salad ... Peaches, apricots, oranges, figs; marinated in Mavrodaphne (Greek sweet wine).


August 19 ... Macaroni, lobster & three cheeses, green gazpacho, grilled hot dogs on toasted anadama buns.

Lobster mac and cheese. Courtesy of the 'Barefoot Contessa'. A reader favorite, but the comments are worth reading.


August 20 ... Wild boar & mushroom ragu over egg noodles, grilled Romano & endive salad w/Creole vinaigrette, apple brown Betty.

Creole vinaigrette ... Combine 2 TBS tarragon vinegar, 1 TSP paprika, 1/2 TSP Dijon mustard, 1/4 TSP cayenne pepper, 1/2 TSP salt in a bowl. Gradually whisk in 6-8 TBS EVO. Sample and adjust to taste.


August 21 ... Fried codfish tongues, boiled turnips & potatoes, wilted sorrel & spinach salad, BV Coastal Estates Chardonnay.

Codfish tongues ...
Ingredients: 2 lbs fresh cod tongues, washed and dried
1 cup flour, season with 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp pepper
4 ounces of salt pork cut into small 1/4 inch cubes (scrunchins)
2 Tbsp vegetable oil
Preparation: Wash the cod tongues and dry with paper towels. Toss in the seasoned flour until lightly coated. Cook the salt pork in a skillet over a medium until the pork pieces are crispy and have released or rendered their fat. Add the vegetable oil to the skillet. Fry the cod tongues over medium-high heat until crispy and golden brown on each side. Eat them plain or dip them in this simple, tangy tarter sauce.
Recipe courtesy of: http://awickedscoff.blogspot.com/, September 14, 2011. Thanks!


August 22 ... Grilled lamb chops, fresh mint sauce, string bean & arugula salad, roasted potatoes, shrimp bisque.

String bean & arugula salad.


August 23 ... Roquefort-stuffed pork chops, apple/mint polenta, scallop & spinach bisque, Key lime & Meyer lemon bars.

Pork chops. Courtesy: Bon Appetit, September 1998.


August 24 ... Grilled stuffed sea bass, German potato salad, corn on the cob, white gazpacho.

White gazpacho. Courtesy: Gourmet Magazine, August 1995.


August 25 ... Shrimp & ham gumbo w/rice, grilled mixed summer squash steaks, flan w/stewed berries, Sazeracs.

Sazerac ... A New Orleans specialty and America's oldest known cocktail (mid-19th century).


August 26 ... Veal piccata, fresh pasta with Parmesan, baked stuffed tomatoes, mushroom-deviled eggs, saki spritzers.

Saki spritzer ... A bottle of saki, one of ginger beer and a few twists of lemon. Might be called a 'saki shandy'.


August 27 ... Wine-braised grilled pork spare ribs, potato, chickpea and turnip puree, carrots sauteed in butter, maple syrup and champagne with green grapes, cantaloupe sherbet.

Carrots ... Peel and slice carrots. Steam until tender/crisp. Saute in butter with maple syrup and sliced green grapes. Swirl in champagne.


August 28 ... Seafood-stuffed eggplant, grilled cucumber salad with Creole vinaigrette, berry compote w/vanilla ice cream.

Compote ... Strawberries, banana, blueberries, mango, raspberries, blackberry brandy, vanilla ice cream.


August 29 ... Grilled London broil, baked potatoes, steamed broccoli, grilled Caesar salad, apple pan dowdy.

Grilled Caesar salad is a variation on the theme with romaine lettuce brushed w/EVO and grilled until lightly charred.


August 30 ... Monkfish Bolognese over fresh pasta with Parmesan. Grilled zucchini steaks. Fresh mint chocolate chip ice cream.

Grilled zucchini ... Slice zucchini along their length into 1/2" steaks. Brush with EVO. Sprinkle with S&P, chopped fresh oregano, rosemary and pressed garlic. Grill over medium flame for about 5 minutes per side.


August 31

... Chicken livers sauteed in aromatics and sherry over low country dirty rice, grilled summer squash, orange freezes.

Orange freeze ... Bates farm in Carlisle, Massachusetts used to make the absolute best orange freezes with milk from the cow barn out back. You can too. Whir in a blender these chilled ingredients: 2 cups orange sherbet, 1 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice, 1/4 cup whole milk. Serves two.


Taproom Thoughts - August 2014


Paul Coelho (novelist, Brazilian, 1947-present) ... The good old days, when each idea had an owner, are gone forever.

Vince Lombardi (football coach, American, 1913-1970) ... Show me a good loser, and I'll show you a loser.

Carroll O'Connor (actor, Archie Bunker, American, 1922-2001) ... In a capitalist society, persons who create capital are given the staggering rewards.

Harriet Tubman (activist, American, 1820-1913) ... I freed a thousand slaves I could have freed a thousand more if only they knew they were slaves.

Michael Abrashoff (Captain, American, US Navy) ... Bad news does not improve with age.

Anais Nin (writer, American, 1903-1977) ... Age does not protect you from love. But love, to some extent, protects you from age.

Frank Sinatra (singer, American, 1915-1998) ... Cock your hat - angles are attitudes.

Lana Turner (actress, American, 1920-1995) ... A gentleman is simply a patient wolf.

Epicurus (philosopher or 'lover of wisdom', Greek, 341-271 BC) ... Skillful pilots gain their reputation from storms and tempest.

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (poet, Tales of a Wayside Inn, American, 1807-1882 ... Every man has his secret sorrows which the world knows not; and often times we call a man cold when he is only sad.

Captain Hebron Morris ... The dew lingers deep in the grass long after the sun has risen.

George Jean Nathan (editor, American, 1882-1958) ... Love is an emotion experienced by the many and enjoyed by the few.

Morihei Ueshiba (athlete, Japanese, 1883-1969) Heaven is right where you are standing, and that is the place to train.

Fran Lebowitz (writer, American, 1951-present) ... Life is something to do when you can't get to sleep. Tecumseh (tribal leader, Shawnee, 1768-1813) ... Always give a word or sign of salute when meeting or passing a friend, or even a stranger, if in a lonely place.

Mencius (philosopher, Chinese, 371-289 BC) ... Truth uttered before its time is always dangerous.

Epicurus (philosopher, Greek, 341-271 BC) ... The art of living well and the art of dying well are one.

Mignon McLaughlin (journalist, American, 1913-1983) ... What you have become is the price you paid to get what you used to want.

Lily Tomlin (actress, American, 1939-present) ... Reality is the leading cause of stress among those in touch with it.

Willie Nelson (musician, American, 1933-present) ... Ninety-nine percent of the world's lovers are not with their first choice. That's what makes the jukebox play.

William Feather (writer, American, 1889-1981) ... Beware of the person who can't be bothered by details.

Sir Francis Drake (seadog, English, 1540-1596) ... It is not that life ashore is distasteful to me. But life at sea is better.

Homer (poet, Greek, 8th century BC) ... There is nothing nobler or more admirable than when two people who see eye to eye keep house as man and wife, confounding their enemies and delighting their friends.

Francis Bacon (polymath, English, 1561-1626) ... God Almighty first planted a garden. And indeed, it is the purest of human pleasures.

Charles Spurgeon (clergyman, English, 1834-1892) ... By perseverance the snail reached the ark.

Margaret Mead (anthropologist, American, 1901-1978) ... For the very first time the young are seeing history being made before it is censored by their elders.

Victor Hugo (writer, French, 1802-1885) ... Toleration is the best religion.