Friday, November 7, 2014

Saltmarsh Inn Menus - November 2014

November 1 ... Cornbread tamale pie. Chopped salad. Mint-chocolate ice cream.
Cornbread tamale pie ... Courtesy: Bon Appetit, September 2014.


November 2 ... Pork chops au poivre. Minted apple sauce. Saffron mashed potatoes. Salade verte. Pear clafouti.
... Courtesy: Bon Appetit, April 2007. Rating: 4/4.


November 3 ... Veal picatta. Wild mushroom risotto. Tuscan kale soup. Various homemade Venetian ices.
... Courtesy: Gourmet, January 2002. Rating: 3/4.


November 4 ... Monkfish and clam bourride with aioli and tapenade. Green salad. Fresh fruit with figs.
Monkfish and clam bourride" ... Courtesy: Gourmet, September 2002, Jody Adams. Rating: 4/4.


November 5 ... Grilled kosher hot dogs in toasted anadama rolls. Mac 'n three cheeses: extra-sharp cheddar, Compte and Parmesan. Stewed hearty garden greens. Broiled mushrooms stuffed with tuna tapenade. Mixed berry beignets. Apple cider, fresh or hard.
Anadama rolls ... Anadama bread is made with a mix of cornmeal, flour and a little light molasses. Delicious. Courtesy: Bon Appetit, November 2000. Rating: 3.5.


November 6 ... Chicken livers sauteed with Madeira. Garlic mashed potatoes. Chopped artichoke, asparagus and avocado salad with Creole vinaigrette.
Creole vinaigrette ... Courtesy: Shania Channel.


November 7 ... Grilled bacon-wrapped halibut in corn husks. Creamed spinach. Carrots in butter with maple syrup, green grapes and champagne. Avancia 'Cuvee de O' Godello 2012, Valdeorras, Spain.
Carrots ... Peel and cut the carrots on the diagonal into 1/4" ovals. Steam or boil until just tender, drain. Melt butter in a saucepan, swirl in Grade B maple syrup (has more flavor) and champagne. Add carrots and green seedless table grapes sliced in half along their lengths. Cover pan and braise for 5 minutes or so until carrots are tender. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve warm.


November 8 ... Apple charcoal grilled pork chops. Saffron mashed potatoes. Shrimp Cobb salad. Apple clafouti. Rose.
Saffron mashed potatoes ... Courtesy: Wall Street Journal, October 3, 2014, by Charlotte Druckman.


November 9 ... Rock Cornish hens. Dirty rice pilaf. Late season fried green tomatoes with basil mayonnaise atop field greens. Burgundy poached pears.
Fried green tomatoes ... Courtesy: Epicorious, April 2009, by Patrick and Gina Neely from Neely's Bar-B-Que in Memphis. Rating: 4/4.


November 10 ... Fish chowder with fresh cod and finan haddie (smoked haddock). Broccoli raab braised in white wine with chorizo. Boston pumpkin brown bread. Toll house cookies with mint ice cream.
Brown bread ... Courtesy: Boston Globe, November 4, 2014.


November 11 ... Broiled skate wing steaks. Oven baked fries with wild mushroom sauce. Wheat berry Waldorf salad. Curried corn and cheddar chowder.
Waldorf salad ... Substitute craisins for raisins, or omit either. Courtesy: Gourmet, October 1995. Rating: 4/4.


November 12 ... Fresh pasta with EVO, toasted pine nuts and a selection of grated aged hard cheeses. Crab and crimini bisque. Shaved carrot and coriander salad.
Crab and crimini bisque ... Courtesy: Bon Appetit, January 2000. Rating: 3.5/4.


November 13 ... Bison stew (grass fed and humanely raised at Saltmarsh Farm). Thomas Jefferson salad. Fall fruit tarts. Mulled wine.
Salad ... “Monticello salads probably included a mixed bouquet of greens, including spinach and endive for winter use, orach, corn salad or mache, pepper grass, French sorrel, cress, and sprouts.” Jefferson’s cousin Mary Randolph describes a salad dressing of oil, tarragon vinegar, hard-boiled egg yolks, mustard, sugar and salt. Jefferson, who was obsessed with salad oil, grew sesame for that purpose." Courtesy: Peter Hatch, director of the Monticello gardens and grounds.


November 14... Shrimp scampi. Chopped green salad with white miso vinaigrette. Cranberry fool with mint-vanilla ice cream.
Scampi ... Simple and and simply delicious. Courtesy: Gourmet, April 2006. Rating: 4/4.


November 15 ... Grilled lamb chops. English mint sauce. Roasted tomato and saffron risotto. Green peas and snap beans with pecorino and toasted pine nuts. Pineapple upside down cake.
Risotto ... Courtesy: Wall Street Journal, October 4, 2014, by Charlotte Druckman.


November 16 ... Broiled haddock with potatoes and vegetables in charmoula sauce. Corn dodgers. Apricot-lemon squares.
Baked haddock ... Charmoula is a Moroccan fish marinade made with tomatoes, lemon, paprika, garlic, cumin, and cilantro. Courtesy: Gourmet, April 2001. Rating: 4/4.


November 17 ... Pasta puttanesca with grated Parmesan. Leafy green salad. Vegetable consomme. Shrimp-stuffed mushrooms. Meyer lemon pie.
Pasta puttanesca ... Surprisingly, this classic dish named for the world's oldest profession seems to be a recent invention. The list of ingredients feel as if they must have been fated to fall together since the beginning of time, but the earliest recorded reference to it is only from 1961. Or so Wikipedia says. Courtesy: Gourmet, June 2008. Rating: 4/4.


November 18 ... Venison, oyster and veal pie. Sliced heirloom tomato salad (grown in Saltmarsh Farm's year-around solar greenhouses). Carrot cake.
Tomato salad ... Slice a variety of ripe heirloom tomatoes thinly, dust with salt and freshly-ground pepper. Finely chop parsley and fresh basil together, add pressed garlic. Sprinkle with extra-virgin olive oil and red wine vinegar, cover with the herbs. Allow flavors to meld before serving.


November 19 ... Grilled soy and sake marinated flank steaks. Chive and cherry bell pepper creamy mashed potatoes. Brussel sprouts braised with chestnuts. Shrimp ceviche cocktail. Craisin Congo bars.
Brussel sprouts and chestnuts ... Courtesy: Gourmet, November 2005. Rating: 4/4.


November 20 ... Apple stuffed loin of pork. Baked acorn squash. Creamed collards. Fall fruit salad with Dalmatian fig preserves.
Creamed collard greens ... Courtesy: Bon Appetit, November 2011. Rating: 3.5/4.


November 21 ... Shellfish chowder: clams, shrimp, mussels, lobster and scallops, in a stock made from their shells. Leaf lettuce salad. Cornbread sticks. Apple tarts.
Shellfish chowder ... This recipe is close to the way we make it, as noted above. Courtesy: Gourmet, November 2002. Rating: 4/4.


November 22 ... Pot-au-feu. Pumpkin cake with maple cream cheese frosting. Shannon Ridge 'Wrangler Red', California 2012.
Pot-au-feu ... Courtesy: Bon Appetit, October 2011. Rating: 4/4.


November 23 ... Linguine with clams. Salade verde. Maple creme caramel. Vigilance Chardonnay, California 2013.
Linguine with clams ... Courtesy: Epicurious, November 2008, by Mario Batali. Rating: 4/4.


November 24 ... Moorish paella. Endive salad with roquefort and bacon. Horchata granita. 2011 Bodegas Torremoron Ribera del Duero Tinto.
Moorish paella recipe.


November 25 ... Braciole. Lemon pasta. Watercress and sorrel salad. Sangiovese.
Braciole ... Pronounced: bra'zhul/ from the Sicilian. Courtesy: Giada De Laurentis, Food Network.


November 26 ... Bermuda fish chowder. New Orleans muffuletta salad. Puerto Rican pineapple rum cake.

Taproom Thoughts - November 2014

Noam Chomsky (activist, American, 1928-now) ... Everybody's worried about stopping terrorism. Well, there's a really easy way: stop participating in it.


Dalai Lama (religious leader, Tibetan, 1935-now) ... My religion is very simple. My religion is kindness.


Charles Lamb (writer, English, 1775-1834) ... I always arrive late at the office, but I make up for it by leaving early.


Sophocles (playwright, Greek, 496-406 BC ) ... To him who is in fear everything rustles.


John Barrymore (actor, American, 1882-1942) ... A man is not old until regrets take the place of dreams.


Matthew Henry (clergyman, English, 1662-1714) ... It is not talking but walking that will bring us to heaven.


Anonymous (everyman, worldwide, eternally) ... Nought's strange as folk.


Heraclitus (Philosopher, Greek, 544-483 BC) ... Bigotry is the sacred disease.


Washington Irving (writer, American, 1783-1859) ... The sorrow for the dead is the only sorrow from which we refuse to be divorced. Every other wound we seek to heal - every other affliction to forget: but this wound we consider it a duty to keep open - this affliction we cherish and brood over in solitude.


Bo Bennett (businessman, American, 1972-now) ... Be friendly to everyone. Those who deserve it the least need it the most.


John Ruskin (writer, English, 1819-1900) ... The purest and most thoughtful minds are those which love colour the most.


Simone de Beauvoir (writer, French, 1908-1986) ... To catch a husband is an art; to hold him is a job.


Thomas Jefferson (President and statesman, America's first foodie, 1743-1826) ... No occupation is so delightful to me as the culture of the earth, and no culture comparable to that of the garden.


George Burns (comedian, American, 1896-1996) ... Happiness is having a large, loving, caring, close-knit family in another city.


Walter Scott (novelist, Scottish, 1771-1832) ... He is the best sailor who can steer within fewest points of the wind, and exact a motive power out of the greatest obstacles.


Charles Kuralt (journalist, American, 1934-1997) ... I believe that writing is derivative. I think good writing comes from good reading.


Mark Twain (author, American, 1835-1910) ... If it's your job to eat a frog, it's best to do it first thing in the morning. And If it's your job to eat two frogs, it's best to eat the biggest one first.


Henri Nouwen (clergyman, Dutch, 1932-1996) ... Friendship has always belonged to the core of my spiritual journey.


Thomas Aquinas (theologian, Italian, 1225-1274) ... Sorrow can be alleviated by good sleep, a bath and a glass of wine.


Mae West (actress, American,1893-1980) ... Keep a diary, and some day it will keep you.


Charles Dickens (novelist, English, 1812-1870) ... A day wasted on others is not wasted on one's self.


Samuel Goldwyn (movie producer, American, 1882-1974) ... Include me out.


Lou Holtz (coach, American, 1937-now) ... If you burn your neighbors house down, it doesn't make your house look any better.


Cicero (statesman, Roman, 106-43 BC) ... If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.


John Steinbeck (author, American, 1902-1968) ... If you're in trouble, or hurt or need - go to the poor people. They're the only ones that'll help - the only ones.


John Dewey (philosopher, American, 1859-1952) ... No man's credit is as good as his money.


Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Tales of a Seaside Inn - Seven

"Folks," Herb said with a flair developed from doing cooking demos at Williams-Sonoma in trendy Chelsea for non-cooking foodies, "we're going old old-school tonight but still turn out the fastest, tastiest dish. When you've got good stuff like this - step back, keep it simple, let it shine."

"Leave the shells with heads and tails on. Devein if a little shit and grit bothers you, with the point of a paring knife raked up the bottom side to flick out the gut."

With a platter of plenty to fill the spider he said, "brush with olive oil, both sides."

"Extra virgin for you, right?" Heath smiled slyly, simply to piss off his number one uncle.

"Does the Pope poop in the woods? Are bears Catholic?"

Now Heath's not the brightest bulb on anyone's Christmas tree, as noted, and had to wrestle with this rebus, his cheeks, buffeted by laughter, turning a deep shade of shrimp.

"Well yes, I guess. No! Bears poop in our woods, piles like elephants passed. The Pope's Catholic - virgin, extra oily virgin. Sorry, nothing but virgins for you Herb."

"Straight on hot spider. Shells keep from burning. Sprinkle sea salt. Grind pepper. Two minutes. Flip. S&P again. Two halves lemons on top for last minute. Done? Tips almost kiss tails. Done and done. Squeeze lemons and scarf."

By the time those were done a heavenly aroma hung in the air and round two was ready. "And repeat?" the Clam asked hopefully. "Sin can wait while shrimp are in on the tide. Hell, heaven can wait too."

"Simple sure, but they're also simply shrimp," Patience pointed out. "Back in the day, old-school as you say, all of the family's meals, and at the inn our guests' too, were prepared on the hearth by the women of the household fighting the heat and smoke."

"Cooking was an inescapable daily, all day chore, sunup to sundown in every season, carried out while at the same time caring for the kids, cleaning house, doing laundry and growing the kitchen garden. The fire might burn down to embers slumbering under a blanket of ash, but it never went out. It was the heart of the house that never stopped beating."

"Simple sure, but also simply shrimp," Patience pointed out. "Back in the day, old-school, all the family's meals, and at the inn our guests' too, were prepared on the hearth by the women of the house fighting heat and smoke."

"Cooking was an inescapable daily, all day chore, sunup to sundown in every season, carried out while cleaning house, doing laundry, caring for the kids and kitchen garden. The fire might burn down to embers beneath ashes but never went out, the heart of the house couldn't stop beating."

"How did women stand such a hard life? How did anyone? The men, the kids?" Shirley wondered. "They had nothing we totally take for granted nowadays - and couldn't live without for long. Stoves, washing machines, vacuum cleaners, electricity, running water, refrigerators, central heating, air conditioners, toilets."

"No packaged, canned or frozen foods, super markets, convenience stores or restaurants outside the keeping rooms of inns like ours. Everything from scratch, all made by hand at home." Herb added.

"No pizza?" Heath marveled.

"None, thank god," Herb replied, "it took the Mafia and the Pizza Connection to shove that down American's throats." He's one of the two people alive who hate pizza and the other disappeared into the witness protection program.

"Lots of clams, though," Sam assured him. "But never fried. Steamers, pies, chowders. Like that. At home stuff. No clam shacks. No fryolaters." Wow, that was disturbing intelligence. He never would have begun to make a living back then. Fried clams were his bread and butter, not to mention beer and gas money.

"They were tough old birds, those Puritans, the first Yankees," Fred agreed. "Luckily they were convinced God was on their side, lightening their loads, lifting their burdens." .

"God yes, but no TV's, radios, telephones, computers or i-Anythings," Patience said. "No muscle cars - or baseball either, Heath."

"In fact, no cars, trucks, engines, outboards and motors of any kind - or professional sports," Fred added.

"No bikinis," Sam dropped the bomb.

"No bikinis!" Wow, the weather was worsening. "No bikinis, pizza, Red Sox. GTO's, Xboxes, Tater Tots. No Warcraft, Halo, Simpsons?" Why did Americans stand for it? Was that why we fought the Revolution? You know when Lincoln crossed the Pontiac and copped all the cool stuff the under the redcoats' Christmas trees."

Clearly a key battle in American history and none of us had never heard of it! But why correct such a fertilely active imagination, fired by the lack of bikinis (although he rather liked it when bikinis came off), practically our national birthright? Save correction for the corrupt, let the innocents go.

"There were no real doctors, hospitals, understanding of disease or effective medicines. When you got really sick, beyond the curative powers of the housewife with her herbs, a well-meaning physician, perhaps also your pastor, might bleed you with his rusty lancet or leeches, dose you with toxic tinctures of mercury or prescribe a prophylactic diet of skunk cabbage. Some souls actually survived these supposed cures. If not, such was the mysterious will of Wonder-Working Providence. George Washington, for one, didn't - his doctor bled him to death."

Shirley, our mild but no-nonsense librarian and curator of the tiny town museum, is something of an expert on historical morbidity and mortality. Rowley offers a fertile field for this study. Fishing, farming, building, forestry and hunting have been the backbone of our economy since the beginning. All still the most dangerous of ways of wresting a living from mother earth. She knows the deadly, sometimes odd and outre, details and death agonies of most of our citizens who didn't die peacefully in their beds with smiles on their faces. Of which, sad to say, there are few.

Her tales, running the gamut from disasters at sea to witch burnings, have captivated both many bored, blase high school students, brought up on the endless slaughter served up by modern media, and our inn's visitors touring the museum's dimly lit catacomb. She really has a touch for making history come alive.

"What they had was a dangerous life of unremitting toil in a rather narrow, stern and unforgiving society," she summarized.

"Which feared and worshiped God, kept law and order, worked hard, stayed sober and demanded good manners," Fred countered, putting in a good word for the Puritans.

Humans are remarkably resilient and adaptable. Plus not missing all these mod-cons, many of which are cons much more than mod, they thought they were on the cutting edge of modernity and modern innovation. Which they were. For their time. So they made do. Just as we think we are and do, while future generations wait in the wings to laugh their asses off at our presumption and primitiveness, as their heirs will them in turn.

"Miracles?" Leander echoed. "It be miracles ye desire? As in ancient days when mighty Moses did part the blood Red Sea to set his people free to wander in the wilderness. Or our lord, a boat carpenter and a sailor himself, walked upon the waters and thence multiplied the fishes therefrom."

"Lads, we liveth in our own days of miracles. They be all around ye. I know of nothing but miracles."

"Consider our galleons lads. There's miracles for ye. Real enough to touch though. Swift enough to whisk ye around the world in a trice with her white clouds of sails. Exquisitely complex machines, carefully crafted, sprung from the mind of men, inspired of God. So strong and finely balanced, tuned to harness all the forces of nature to our will. So fit to rule the waves. In tune with the will of God."

"Girdling the entire globe as, my ofttimes captain, Drake did in three brief years, returning laden with the plundered ill-gotten gold of the Popish Spaniard, blessed be the miracle of our finely wrought armaments, encircling the earth in the service of our noble Elizabeth. Wonders of shipbuilding and seamanship. Ships and men with hearts of oak."

"Now we do commune with the Celestial Empire by celestial navigation, charts and compass. Impress the Slave Coast of Africa into our services. Trade for tea with the East Indies. Settle a New World across the Atlantic, perhaps one day to found a 'new' England in the land of fierce savages and storms."

"Lads, we still live in times of miracles!"

See, sometimes it all depends on one's perspective in time.

"But I wonder," Fred said "Are we really any better off today? The world's still a dangerous place. And it seems to get more dangerous every day. It's just that our risks and dangers are different from theirs. Bigger and scarier. Global - we get all the bad news at the speed of light now and deadly diseases spread at as fast as jets travel. The criminals get cleverer and more compassionless. The crazies are crazier and there's lots more of them. Our wars are more deadly than theirs ever were. Few fear God any more, and rather than beware fire, it seems the whole human race loves to play with it nowadays." Fred said."

"And those who play with fire will get burned," Shirley finished his melancholy musings. "I know something about playing with fire first hand."

Now I don't know if I mentioned it, but Shirley's family. Karen's 'almost family', but Shirley actually is family. And black, which I'm sure I didn't say, and the Morrises are white. Which I also didn't mention but you've probably gathered - being English, Puritans, sea captains and all, it sort of goes without saying. Obviously a tale waits in the wings, a dark stain in the family history.

Before the Revolution, slavery was legally and openly practiced worldwide including in the 'city on a hill' and our fair 'Commonwealth', populated by the 'salt of the earth' who saw themselves as the 'light of the world', especially chosen of God to set a shining example to the sinners and backsliders of all nations.

Not a lot, mind you. For the most part the ungodly machinery of black enslavement was kept well offshore, far away from the godly white beacon burning brightly in Boston with its 'purer air than elsewhere' as the divines flattered their congregations.

The stony New England soil and short growing season were unsuitable for large scale commercial agriculture such as practiced in the slave systems of the South and Caribbean. But the nouveau riche in booming Boston, Salem and North Shore towns often had 'their niggers', or among 'the quality', 'their Africans' to do 'their bidding', mainly their dirty work and drudgery.

So how did many of these 'riche' come by their 'riches'? In the Atlantic slave trade, or as the quality referred to it the 'African trade' when the fantastically lucrative dirty business unfortunately had to be referred to at all.

They were proud to be privateers, smugglers and blockade runners. These were patriotic professions and the basis of many other fortunes, but slaving was, well, slightly shameful at best and perhaps even smelled of sin at worst. In any case the whole business stank and was kept downwind well away from Boston which provided the capital, ships and crews to promote the trade. Out of sight and out of mind was their motto except for ciphers showing swelling balances in their counting house ledger books.

They were proud to be privateers, smugglers and blockade runners. These were patriotic professions and the basis of many other fortunes, but slaving was, well, slightly shameful at best and perhaps even smelled of sin at worst. In any case the whole business stank and was kept downwind well away from Boston which provided the capital, ships and crews to promote the trade. Out of sight and out of mind was their motto except for ciphers showing swelling balances in their counting house ledger books.

The Puritan faith, however, demanded constant self-scrutiny as to the state of one's soul, an unending ethical inventory of one's conscience. Therefore, as you might imagine, the subject of slavery was a constant source of moral conflict. These examinations and reflections were often recorded in journals, especially by the sea captains who accomplished the slaving voyages, seamen accustomed to keeping scrupulous logbooks. These other logs were their wrestlings with, their accountings to God; celestial navigation on deep spiritual seas.

Captain Hebron himself wondered. "Certain the Bible be peopled with slaves, but 'tis slavery truly sanctioned by Scripture, approved by almighty God? The Greeks and Romans we so admire of and would'st emulate, if not in points religious, did'st not their noble empires hold and traffic in slaves?"

"These fresh-wrought ideas on the march of 'natural laws' - all men created equal - which mayhap lead us to sever the 'slavery' to our Mother, seem they not to suggest enslavement wrong? But our best leaders in the colonies, are not many of their fortunes built on the backs of blacks? Their wealth not hewn out of howling wilderness by men of Africa? Would'st those worthies be such hypocrites? Doth they not doubt in the in-most meditations and dead reckonings in the sailing of their immortal souls? All in all, 'tis a most vexing quandary."

"For the Africans, they be men 'twouldst seem to me. But be they human? Black as night, black as sin, the cloak and cover the devil himself prefers. Not Christian, ignorant of our Lord, worshiping heathen idols and natural spirits. Possessed of no written language. Naked of garment. Most promiscuous as to sacred relations. By the balance, wouldst seem hardly human. Savages, as the Indians we did'st encounter when claiming these shores and must still needs struggle against, they proving vengeful and most unfit for profitable servitude upon our shores."

So he reconciled himself to his god and conscience, which were one and the same, conscience being the voice of God in the Puritan view, deciding that, "In the balance, I be boon and benefactor to these droves of Adam's degenerate seed. Forsooth, doing of good whilst doing well. Most satisfactorily well indeed."

Now, before you sneer - are not your own self-delusions and justifications built on the same shifting sands? Are we not all headed downhill on the same slippery slope of denial? Tell me then, who ain't a slave?

The profits to be made in the slave trade were simply too staggering to be ignored. Hebron's ship the 'Free Spirit' was in constant transit across the Atlantic to Africa and back to the Americas. He summarized the first voyage in his ledgers as follows.

"Boston to Africa: 8,220 gallons rum, 200 ingots African iron [used as native currency], divers trade sundries.
Gold Coast to Barbados: 55 slaves, 40 ounces gold dust, 900 pounds black pepper.
West Indies to Boston: 55 hogshead molasses, 5 hogsheads & 27 barrels sugar, 412.55 pounds sterling bills of exchange on Liverpool.
Deduct expenses incurred and one-sixth loss of live cargo on Middle Passage. 'Spirit' didst, with God's divers blessings, yield twenty-fold increase on capital of our brave company."

A 2,000 percent annual ('triangular' voyages such as this took about a year) return on investment? That would turn anyone's head. Even the riskiest and most lucrative current drug trade can't come close to matching such results, which were achieved with fairly low risk. Nothing ever has, and no doubt never will again, match the fantastic profits which the slavers based out of Boston easily enjoyed.

Africans, however, were never brought to Boston in large numbers. At most, enslaved and free, blacks made up less than 3% of its citizens. The centers of the slave system were far to the south where slaves made up 33% of the population. Boston's ships were simply the South's pimps, procurers and suppliers of helpless black flesh ripe for raping.

The few blacks shipped to the city were destined to slave as domestic servants, laborers or workers in small manufacturies. Sometimes they were chosen to customer specifications at the 'castles', or slave trading prison stations ringing the West African coast, but most desirably from populations who had undergone rigorous 'seasoning', or breaking in of body and spirit, in the West Indies where slaves made up to 90% of the populations.Africans, however, were never brought to Boston in large numbers. At most, enslaved and free, blacks made up less than 3% of its citizens. The centers of the slave system were far to the south where slaves made up 33% of the population. Boston's ships were simply the South's pimps, procurers and suppliers of helpless black flesh ripe for raping.

To wit, Hebron's wife Purslane, after many dark nights of the soul and prayerful consideration sought the discreet counsel of midwife Hepzibah, demanding and receiving tokens of deepest confidence, which this noble soul, who in her time had birthed most members of this town, never betrayed.

"Dame Hepzibah, if impaled longer on Hebron's perpetually stiff bowsprit, always ready to burst the brig of his britches, forsooth shall I perish. Have I not painfully birthed by the effusion his hot seed more than a dozen babes? Six still-borne, five called to the Lord in infancy, three dead before one score years. My remaining, Portia, a sweet child, put with Christian charity, but daft as the day be long."

"I can'st stand no more. Clear I am no brooding mare and, although dutiful wife, his hot lust, dead cert after a long celibate voyage, is blight on my life which soon'st must snuff my brief candle. Our marriage bed fills me now with nought but fear and disgust."

"Sister," Hebzibah began hesitantly, "I ken your deep dilemma and dire circumstance, of which I have oft suspect. Situations as yours be not unique, 'tho I can'st quote cases, my lips sealed by sacred vows of silence such as thee requesteth of me. But know ye be not alone, nor without keen sympathy of the Almighty."

"In desperate situations as this have I counseled husbands absolved of fidelity to the hot marriage bed that they might find cooling relief in arms of divers loose women more fit to such battlefronts. Harlots, strumpets, tramps and their ilk."

"Although, fully frank my dear, does not he trade in Blackamoors? Mighst not a tropically-fired piece of ebony Eve's flesh sate his mad appetites? Suitably situated in the shadows, of course. The shades of a bustling inn as maid tending to divers guests, or busy farm as a milkmaid to kine. Out of sight, out of mind, to put most plainly."

That afternoon Purslane penned a letter to Hebron, busy in Boston preparing 'Free Spirit' for a fresh venture to the Dark Continent, and dispatched it with the next rider transiting the Post Road outside the inn.

"My soul's earthly Captain,
Would'st thou, while on the wild shores of Afric, kindly acquire a comely and compliant lass, competent to service our guests' every needs? This mayhap would relieve my onerous responsibilities and lighten considerable burdens. Perhaps of nubile age so she may grow up knowing no other life but faithful service to us and prove amenable to Christian catechism.
Purslane Morris, your devoted wife."

Hebron read easily between her lines. Lines he'd been thinking along himself. He was weary of congress, rarely permitted, with a wife of bony pelvis who lay prone, unresponsive and dry as a sack of old potatoes beneath the practiced thrusts of a man in his prime still running with the unsated sap of youth.

"My dear," he replied, "I shall endeavor to fulfill the request in your letter to our mutual satisfaction." Which he did to the letter and their quite separate satisfactions.

Today we call this a win-win situation, but inevitably when two win, at least one other has to lose - and that one had better be strong enough for two. Talk about the triangle trade!

Clotel, or Chloe as she came to be called, was only twelve when she caught Hebron's discerning eye for flesh at a factory, or slave trading station, on the Guinea Coast. He was immediately captivated by her budding comeliness. "Mighst be ripe for plucking aft a year or two to mature."

Their early matings were marred by violence that Hebron, as Christian, found disturbing but needless necessary. Slavery simply was that way, its foundation built on shifting sands of violence supporting the manifold rotten structure.

No men or women in their minds, nor animals even, would surrender a brief earthly stay but their bodies be beaten into submission and spirits crushed. Violence alone made souls into slaves, conditioned by fears of god and master deeply impressed into their psyches. Willful fillies must be broken by repeated lashings of the crop and cock.

When she was fourteen Hebron began insinuating his infatuation and intent toward the child, which she resisted politely at first as absurd then quite positively as abhorrent. He saw she would need special persuasions, more correction than he could bring to bear with his solitary staff.

In the South it was said of blacks. "You can get close but not too high". Blacks might live close to their masters but they'd better know and keep their places.

In the North the motto went. "You can get high but not too close". Blacks might move up, even to freedom, but they'd better know and keep their distance.

Toward this end, and moreover to disguise his dark purpose, he built a small clapboard cabin in the apple orchard on the hill overlooking the ocean, looking back toward Africa, between the inn and farm. Abundant tree prunings fueled the fieldstone fireplace for heating and cooking. Later, when the dark family was freed and fled, it was used as a smokehouse until other forms of preservation became preferred. Preserved forever however seems to be the redolent scent of applewood smoke, still lingering in the air despite stripping the interior back to its bones.

Saltmarsh Inn Menus - October 2014

October 1 ... Skate wing, razor clam, dogfish and chorizo chowder. Stewed collard slaw with lemon aioli. Cheddar-chestnut cornbread sticks. Pears poached in apple cider and Calvados with fig jam and vanilla bean ice cream.
Collards ... Strip out the stems, roll the leaves in bundles and slice thinly. Simmer in chicken stock and white wine for two hours. Drain thoroughly (drink the liquor, if no one beats you to it) and cool. Fold in finely chopped onion, celery and lemon aioli.


October 2 ... Brunswick stew with local wild squirrel and rabbit. Field green salad. Pecan pie. Apple cider.
Brunswick stew ... is classic backwoods fare using pretty much whatever small four-footers one can snare, trap or shoot: Except beavers and skunks, which are too 'gamey' and not in a good way given their perfumes.


October 3 ... Grilled and wine-braised bison steaks (locally raised). Roasted root vegetables. Grilled Caesar salad. Shrimp and spinach gougeres. Pineapple and rum upside down cake.
Roasted root vegetables ... Coarsely chop potatoes, turnips, carrots, parsnips and onions. Sprinkle with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss with EVO. Roast in oven.


October 4, 2014 ... Roasted Rock Cornish hens. Parsnip puree. Garlicky green beans with feta and crumbled chestnuts. Grilled tuna pate on crostini. Maple flan with raspberry sauce.
... Courtesy: Traci Des Jardins at Jardiniere, San Fransisco. Epicurious, November 2007.

October 5 ... Duck confit. Tuscan white beans. Spinach salad with sun-dried tomatoes and olives. Tenuta Luce Della Vite “Lucente” Toscana IGT - 'Super Tuscan' blend of about 50% Merlot, 25% Sangiovese and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Duck confit ... Courtesy: Tom Colichhio, Gramercy Tavern, New York, NY. Epicurious, 1999. This is not a difficult recipe, but it does of course require duck fat, the source of its succulence.


October 6 ... Turtle meat and frog leg gumbo served over lemon-coconut basmati rice. Corn on the cob. Squash blossom salad. Vouvray. Horchata de chufa granita.
Horchata de chufa ... Horchata is the delicious and refreshing drink of Valencia made with tiger nuts. Available online

October 7 ... Strozzapreti with shrimp, spinach and preserved lemon. Grilled loukaniko with mostarda. Wild mushroom deviled eggs. Fig crostata.
Strozzapreti ... This vegetarian spiral pasta dish features lemon in three forms. Any other fresh or dried pasta can be substituted. Rating: 2.5 forks. Dead easy and delish. Courtesy: Philip Krajeck, Rolf and Daughters in Nashville, TN. Bon Appetit, September 2013.


October 8 ... Fresh cavatelli (pasta) with veal Bolognese and aged Gouda. Grilled summer squash steaks with various herb-infused extra-virgin olive oils. Finan haddie brandade with garlic and herb crostini. Melon and mint gelato with creme fraiche.
Summer squash ... Slice the squashes longitudinally (from stem to stern, removing both) into 3/4" or so 'steaks'. Sprinkle with kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and brush with extra virgin or an infused olive oil on both sides. Grill over fairly high heat, flipping and reorienting for attractive grill marks, until the squash looks tender and succulent. Cheese can be melted on the top after the final turn if not used in other dishes.


October 9 ... Three-meat loaf (beef, pork, bacon). Oven frites. Tomatoes with green goddess dressing. Bluefish tapenade on crostini. Coconut dusted oranges in lime jello.
Meatloaf. ... Courtesy: Gourmet, February 2008. Rating: 4/4.


October 10 ... Bacalao fettucine alfredo. Grilled romaine salad with lemon-caper vinaigrette. Pear and cranberry crisp.

October 11 ... Tuscan lamb shanks with white beans. Garden salad. Raspberry trifle.
Tuscan lamb shanks ... Gourmet, December 2008. Rating: 4/4.


October 12 ... Bun bo hue, spicy Vietnamese beef and noodle soup. Cucumbers in Greek yogurt. Saki. Lemon frosted carrot cake.



Hue ... Courtesy: Bon Appetit, January 2006. Rating: 3-1/2/4.
Saltmarsh Inn 10/13/14 ... Grass-fed steaks with Kalamata olive chimichurri. New potatoes. String beans. Date bars.

October 14 ... Shrimp and tasso stuffed baked summer squash. Wilted chard and cherry tomato salad salad with Creole vinaigrette. Wild mushroom oven frites with mushroom ketchup. Red velvet cake.
Chard salad ... Chop the cherry tomatoes and chard. Saute briefly in EVO. Toss with vinaigrette.


October 15 ... Comte and aged gouda souffles in ramekins. Broiled haddock. Salad of mixed garden greens. Anadama crostini. Bush berry compote over freshly-made vanilla bean ice cream.
Bush berry compote ... Blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, cranberries, elderberry and fig jams.


October 16 ... Roasted black cherry tomatoes and grilled sea bass over linguine with Parmesan. Sorrel, Swiss chard and spinach shredded salad. Apple pan dowdy. Chablis.
Shredded salad ... A shredded salad is like a chopped salad, but think the look of cole slaw. Stack and slice the leaves thinly into ribbons, then cut or snip them to an inch or two. Toss with a light citrus-caper vinaigrette. Top each serving with crumbled crisp bacon, chopped toasted pine nuts and a runny poached egg.


October 17 ... Duck a l'orange, lower bayou dirty rice, Cajun stewed greens, coconut flan, Jax beer.
Flan ,,, Courtesy: Gourmet, December 2007. Rating: 4/4.


October 18 ... Crab and shrimp cakes w/curried aioli, mock turtle soup, corn on the cob, peppermint-frosted devil's food cake.
Mock turtle soup ... Once turtles were a plentiful and abundant wild food species in America, prized for their succulent meat. Their habitats and the vital links between them, however, have been destroyed and degraded, and it takes years to grow a turtle to soup-size, so they're not exactly ideal for ranching. Mock turtle soup was devised to replace green turtle soup with a swampy faux (or mock) turtle taste and texture.


October 19 ... Boeuf Bourguinon (Julia Child). Garden salad. Warm caramel apple monkey bread with vanilla ice cream.

October 20 ... Weiner schnitzel. Brussel sprout sauerkraut. Potato latkes. Apple strudel.
Brussel Sprout Sauerkraut ... Courtesy: Pinch and Swirl.


October 21 ... Picadillo Cubano. Stewed black beans and rice. Isla Bonita chopped green salad. Flying fish and conch limbos with lime aioli. Upside down pineapple rum cake.
Picadillo Cubano ... Courtesy: Bon Appetit, March 2005. Rating: 3.5/4.


October 22 ... Grilled lemon-parsley veal chops. Grilled romaine salad. Saffron rice pilaf. Vernaccia di San Gimignano (dry Italian white).

October 23 ... Duck, andouille and shrimp gumbo over white rice. Raspberry shortcake. Chardonnay.
Gumbo ... View the video! Made with a long-cooked duck fat roux. Oh my. Courtesy: Chef John, Allrecipes.com.


October 24 ... Applewood grilled marinated tuna steaks. Potato gratin. Creole stewed hearty greens. Pear cobbler.
Tuna steaks ... Courtesy: Allrecipes.com. Rating: 4.5/5.


October 25... Maple and clove baked ham. Grits with red-eye gravy. Fried green tomatoes. Green gumbo.


October 26 ... Cornish crab pasties with lobster cream sauce. Black cherry tomato salad. Razor clams with chiles and garlic. Frozen raspberry lemon bars. Cava.
October 27 ... Shepherd's pie. Leafy green salad. Grilled stuffed jalapeno peppers. Indian pudding with brandy hard sauce.
Shepherd's Pie .... Chef Gordon Ramsay cooks it up for you in 2 speedy minutes.


October 28 ... Grilled pesto shrimp over buttered egg noodles with Parmesan. Szechuan dry-fried green beans with pickled mustard greens and braised pork belly. Apple crisp with vanilla ice cream.
Dry-fried green beans ... Courtesy: Saveur, November 2013.


October 29 ... Galician seafood pie. Fava bean and field green salad. Garlic bread. Horchata and coconut granita.
Galician seafood pie ... Courtesy: BBC food recipes.

October 30 ... Pot-au-feu with savory sauces and garnishes. Toasted country bread. Cotes du Rhone-Villages.
Pot-au-feu ... Courtesy: Bon Appetit, October 2011. Rating: 4/4.

October 31 ... Moorish paella. Oakleaf lettuce salad with light citrus vinaigrette. Cava.
Moorish paella ... Courtesy: Food52.

Taproom Thoughts - October 2014

Victor Kiam (entrepreneur, American, 1926-2001) ... You can only govern men by serving them. The rule is without exception.


H. Jackson Brown, Jr. (writer, American, 1940-now) ... Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.


Victor Kiam (entrepreneur, American, 1926-2001) ... You can only govern men by serving them. The rule is without exception.

H. Jackson Brown, Jr. (writer, American, 1940-now) ... Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.


Rainer Maria Rilke (poet, German, 1875-1926) ... I hold this to be the highest task for a bond between two people: that each protects the solitude of the other.


Stendhal (writer, French, 1783-1842) ... Women are always eagerly on the lookout for any emotion.


G. K. Chesterton (writer, English, 1874-1936) ... All architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps architecture is really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks.


Jim Rohn (entrepreneur, American, 1930-2009) ... Formal education will make you a living; self-education will make you a fortune.


Meister Eckhart (philosopher, German, 1260-1328) ... If the only prayer you ever say in your entire life is thank you, it will be enough.


Reinhold Niebuhr (theologian, American, 1892-1971) ... Evil is not to be traced back to the individual but to the collective behavior of humanity.


Andy Warhol (artist, American,1928-1897) ... Being good in business is the most fascinating kind of art. Making money is art and working is art and good business is the best art.


Orson Welles (movie director and actor, American, 1915-1985) ... If there hadn't been women we'd still be squatting in a cave eating raw meat, because we made civilization in order to impress our girlfriends.


P.J. O'Rourke (writer, American, 1947-now) ... Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power.


Perry Mason (lawyer, American, 'The Case of the Credulous Quarry') ... What one lawyer giveth, another can taketh away. Old Greek proverb.


Albert Einstein (physicist, German, 1879-1955) ... If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.


Johnny Cash (musician, American, 1932-2003) ... I love to go to the studio and stay there 10 or 12 hours a day. I love it. What is it? I don't know. It's life.


Charlie Chaplin (actor, English, 1899-1977) ... What do you want a meaning for? Life is a desire, not a meaning.


Charles Stanley (clergyman, American, 1932-now) ... One of Satan's most deceptive and powerful ways of defeating us is to get us to believe a lie. And the biggest lie is that there are no consequences to our own doing. Satan will give you whatever you ask for if it will lead you where he ultimately wants you.


Ann Landers (advice columnist, American, 1918-2002) ... All married couples should learn the art of battle as they should learn the art of making love. Good battle is objective and honest - never vicious or cruel. Good battle is healthy and constructive, and brings to a marriage the principles of equal partnership.


W. Clement Stone (businessman, American, 1902-2002) ... What contemptible scoundrel has stolen the cork to my lunch?


Agatha Christie (writer, English, 1890-1976) ... An archaeologist is the best husband a woman can have. The older she gets the more interested he is in her.


W. Somerset Maugham (writer, English, 1874-1965) ... There is no explanation for evil. It must be looked upon as a necessary part of the order of the universe. To ignore it is childish, to bewail it senseless.


Henny Youngman (comedian, American, 1906-1998) ... Some people ask the secret of our long marriage. We take time to go to a restaurant two times a week. A little candlelight, dinner, soft music and dancing. She goes Tuesdays, I go Fridays.


Jagger and Richards (Beggars Banquet, 1968.) ... Let's think of the wavering millions who need leading but get gamblers instead.

John Locke (philosopher, English, 1632-1704) ... Government has no other end but the preservation of property.


Curt Cobain (musician, American, 1967-1994) ... A friend is nothing but a known enemy.


Cookbook of a Seaside Inn


I'm pleased to introduce this cookbook in the works written by my brother, Herbert Morris, chef of the Saltmarsh Inn.

Herb is responsible for the great food we serve at the Inn. He no doubt got his chops from our mother, Justine, who was our chef for years, a fantastic cook whom Herb helped with fascination from an age when he could barely see over the counters and stood on a milk crate to stir the soup.

He continued his cooking career serving aboard various ships in the Navy, then trained at the Cordon Bleu, Paris on the GI bill. Commander's Palace in New Orleans and Daniel (Boulud) in New York are among the fine dining destinations he's captained. When Justine retired, he returned to Rowley and his childhood kitchen.

Bon appetit ... Harris Morris.


SALADS

Frisee salad with Dijon vinaigrette

Frisee is a slightly bitter salad green, a small, crisp, curly-leafed endive, called chicoree frisee in France and sometimes called chicory in the U.S.

INGREDIENTS
1 pound frisee leaves; washed, dried, trimmed and torn
1 bunch fresh chives, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup white-wine vinegar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

PREPARATION
1. Combine frisee and chives in a salad bowl.
2. Whisk vinegar and mustard together in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Blend well.
3. Drizzle in oil, whisking steadily. Blend well.
4. Toss with frisee just before serving.


SPIRITS

Smoking Bishop

Aunt Polly Patience, Captain Leander Morris's wife, wrote this recipe with a precise feminine hand in the margins of one of his scrupulously-kept logbooks on a page describing a winter voyage to St. Petersburg. Evidently he adopted it as a sovereign remedy for his crew when venturing into colder climes.

Roast slowly rinds of orange or lemon pierced by cloves.
Brew spices in a spider (cast iron pan), kept solely for the said purpose.
Cinnamon, mace, cardamom, allspice, cloves, peppercorns, whatever thou fanciest.
Add sufficient water to satisfy each topers's mug with a few drams.
Bring a-boil, move off flame, simmer. Strain liquor through an old stocking.
Add brew to mug with a thimble of Demerara (sugar). Fill with claret (need not be the best).
Heat pokers on hearth until they gloweth like the devil's own damned pitchfork.
Plunge into a mug. Hold while the wine spits and sputters like Satan himself.
Reheat the poker` upon the hearth and repeat. Ye will taste the very flavor of the fire itself.

This is the most-requested tall summertime drink for sipping on the terrace outside the inn's taproom. It's simplicity itself. The proportions are flexible and forgiving, but it requires the following specific ingredients, which combine in some sort of chemical magic.


Bourbon lemonade

INGREDIENTS ...
Jim Beam bourbon
Nantucket Nectars lemonade
ice cubes, small, as from an ice machine
fresh mint on the stem
marashino cherry (optional)
tall ice tea tumbler and long spoon

PREPARATION ...
1. Chill tall ice tea glasses in the freezer.
2. Add a large spring of mint to each frosted glass. Muddle slightly with the long spoon.
3. Add ice. Pour in lemonade to several inches below the rim of the glass.
4. Add 2 or 3 fingers of bourbon. Stir with the spoon.
5. Garnish with another mint sprig and a cherry, if it makes you feel happy. Serve.


TAPAS

Bluefish Pate

INGREDIENTS ...
1/2 pound bluefish fillets, skin-on and de-boned
1 cup hickory chips, soaked for an hour
extra-virgin olive oil
6 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon Cognac
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 medium red onion, minced
1 lemon, juiced and strained
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
1/4 cup chives, minced
Tabasco sauce

PREPARATION ...
1. Build a fire with a dozen briquettes in the corner of a covered charcoal grill. Spread and top the coals with the hickory chips when they're covered with ash and at a medium heat (hand at 5 inches for 5 seconds).
2. Brush the fish with olive oil and sprinkle well with salt and pepper.
3. Place the fish, flesh down over the coals. Cook covered for 4 minutes. Move away from the coals, re-cover and cook for about 6 minutes more or until the flesh is thoroughly opaque.
4. Remove from grill and allow to cool,
5. Flake the bluefish into a food processor, disposing of the skin.
6. Add the cream cheese, butter, Cognac, Worcestershire sauce and pulse until mixed.
7. Add the onions, half the lemon juice, parsley, chives and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Pulse again until mixed.
8. Taste and add more lemon juice, salt, pepper and Tabasco as needed. The consistency should divided the difference between a pate and a mousse.
9. Serve immediately spread on toast or crostini or cover and refrigerate for a day or so.


Sea Legs


To venture on the ocean requires 'sea legs' ... the ability to anticipate the motion of a ship so as to be able to walk steadily without losing one's balance and/or the intestinal fortitude to stave off seasickness. Here we use the phrase to mean ... understanding and speaking the vast vocabulary of the sea, ships and seamen.


A


asea ... On the sea on a ship or boat.

ashore ... On the land, as opposed to being asea.


B


bilge ... The lowest level of a ship or boat, an area around the keel where water, bilge water, tends to collect, to be removed by baling or with a bilge pump. See: bilge pump, bilge water.

boat ... A small watercraft, suitable for inland or coastal waters as opposed to a ship, larger and capable of carrying cargo, passengers or fishing on the open sea or crossing oceans.

bolt rope ... A rope sewn around the edge of a sail to strengthen the fabric and prevent tearing or a large diameter rope running around the gunwales of a boat as a bumper.


C


chart ... A special scaled map of the coastal waters and/or open ocean with specific details needed for the successful navigation of vessels in the waters depicted. The word map is not used at sea.

coastal piloting ... the discipline of navigating a craft up and down a coast, usually within sight of land,as opposed to on an ocean passage.

cuddy ... A small cabin in the bows of a sailboat for sheltering in from the elements and storing supplies, possibly with a short berth for napping.


D


dinghy ... A small sailing or rowing watercraft, usually to mean under 10 feet long.

dory ... A rowing or sailing craft with two pointed ends used in the Atlantic fishery.


E


ebb (tide) ... The outgoing tide, period between high and low tides when the sea level is dropping or going out.

eddy ... A water current in opposition to the main current.


F


fathom ... Six feet, roughly the span of outstretched arms.

fetch ... The area of open ocean over which winds blow.

fiddles ... The rails around the edges of tables, counters and shelves to keep objects from falling off when the boat heels.

flood (tide) ... The incoming tide, period between low and high tides when the sea level is rising or coming in.

G


gaff ... A small spar at the top of a mast holding a gaff-rigged (rectilinear) sail.

galley ... The kitchen aboard a ship or boat.

glass ... The barometer aboard a ship or boat. Formerly also a telescope or hourglass. The glass might either be rising (air pressure increasing), falling (air pressure decreasing) or holding steady (not moving up or down).


H


halyard ... A line of 'running' rigging used to control the position or 'set' of a sail.

hard ... To put the wheel or tiller as far as possible to one side or the other to turn the vessel decisively. Example: hard-a-lee.

head ... The toilet and/or bathroom aboard a ship or boat.

heave-to ... To stop a seagoing vessel. Variations: hove-to.

(the) hook ... The anchor aboard a ship or boat.


I


in irons ... Said when a sailing vessel is headed directly into the wind, unable to make way or maneuver.


J


jibe ... A downwind turn where the stern passes through the eye of the wind and the sail crosses over onto the opposite tack.

jigger ... A small sail to the stern.


K


ketch ... A fore and aft rigged sailing vessel with two masts.


L


land breeze ... A breeze from the land onto the sea. See: offshore breeze.

latitude ... Lines on a chart, map or globe parallel to the equator.

leeward ... Away from the wind. The direction away from where the wind is blowing, or referring to a position further away, or downwind, of one's present position. See: windward, upwind.

lee shore ... A shoreline onto which the wind is blowing. See: windward shore.

longitude ... Lines on a chart, map or globe emanating from earth's two poles and perpendicular to the lines of latitude and the equator.


M


Mercator ... A standard chart or map projection, or way to represent the spherical earth on a flat two-dimensional surface.

mizzen ... The rear of two masts or sails in a two-masted or divided rig.


N


neap ... The lowest lunar tide, occurring with a new moon, also called the dark of the moon.

NOAA ... The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association. The U.S. government group charged with creating marine weather forecasts and operating coastal radio stations disseminating them around the country for mariners.


O


oakum ... A sticky mixture of hemp and pine pitch used for caulking wooden ships and boats.

offshore breeze (wind) ... A breeze blowing from off the shore onto the sea. See: land breeze.

onshore breeze (wind) ... A breeze blowing from off the sea onto the shore. See: sea breeze.

orlop ... The lowest deck on board a ship.


P


pinching ... Sailing as close to the wind as possible, on the edge of luffing.

port ... The left side of a ship or boat looking forward toward the bow, or front, of the craft.

privateer ... A state-licensed pirate.


Q


Quarter ... Area of a ship or boat just to either side of the bow or stern.


R


ratlines ... Rigging in the shrouds to ascend them up the mast.

reach ... Sailing with the wind blowing from a direction generally over the beam of the boat. Close reach - from the bow quarter; beam reach - from the side; broad reach - from the stern quarter.

reef ... To decrease the area of a sail using rows of ties along a sail which wrap around its boom or with a roller-type rigging mounted on the forestay of that sail's mast. Variations.: reefing, to take a reef (or two), to reef down.

running ... Sailing with the wind blowing from directly behind the craft, the sail eased out perpendicular to the keel of the craft.

running rigging ... The movable, adjustable lines aboard a sailing ship or boat which haul (raise up and down) or set (adjust the trim or position of the the sails and booms. See: standing rigging.


S


saloon ... The main, general-purpose, cabin aboard a sail or power boat, often used for both living, dining and sometimes sleeping, usually outfitted fixed settees instead of chairs.

sea breeze ... A breeze blowing from the sea onto the land. See: onshore breeze.

spar ... Any object used to support a sail - mast, boom, yard, gaff, pole or sprit.

standing rigging ... The fixed, un-moving lines aboard a sailing ship or boat which support the mast(s). See: running rigging.

starboard ... The right side of a ship or boat looking forward toward the bow, or front, of the craft.

stays ... The standing or fixed rigging which supports a mast(s) aboard a ship or boat.

surfboat ... A type of boat used in surf lifesaving to go from shore out through the breaking waves, and back again.

... Launching a surfboat on Plum Island.


T


tack ... To change direction in relation to the wind or apparent wind.

telltale ... A length of light cloth or string tied to a shroud to help tell the (apparent) direction of the wind.

tideway ... A sea channel in which tides set, ebbing and flowing.


W


windward ... Toward the wind. The direction toward where the wind is blowing, or referring to a position closer to, or upwind, from one's present position. See: leeward, upwind.

windward shore ... A shoreline off which the wind is blowing. See: leeward shore.

U


upwind ... To be closer to where the wind is blowing from than another craft or objest.


V


veering ... A wind trending toward eastern point of the compass. See: backing.


W


Wash ... A large inlet bay on England's west coast.

wear ship ... 'To take three right turns hang make a left'.

westerly ... A wind or breeze blowing from the west. Winds are referred to from the direction in which they blow.


X


x-factor ... That unknown element in the equation of sailing skill or strategy.

Y


yawl ... A two-masted vessel with the mizzen stepped far to the stern.


Z


zulu ... Radio code for the letter 'Z'.


Monday, September 1, 2014

Tales of a Seaside Inn - Six


Tales of a Seaside Inn continues below from Part Five in August.

... Martin Johnson Heade.


Herb told me, "I've never had a fucking clue what 'Nam' was about. Then or to today. None of us did. It never made any sense, not for a second. We were all on board this ship, but none of us were ever on board with Washington's wet dream. Just mushrooms, kept in the dark and fed on shit."

"Look. It was what? A civil war. Other people's business, not ours. Politicians stuck our noses in it. And, surprise! We got shit all over our faces for thanks. Just the way Iraq and Afghanistan are playing out now. History teaches us nothing because we never listen up and learn, so it happens all over again."

Wow. I guess he had some real anger stored up. I didn't get all he said, but parts I did, mostly agreed with, and just filed it all away. Why? I don't know. Maybe to tell you now. Call me Ishmael.

Whatever he felt about that war and thought about war itself - which we'll hear more about down the road, having gotten an earful for now, he did his duty. Without enthusiasm, true - except in the galley. No doubt none of the armed forces has ever eaten so well. Although in his wake maybe they have. He patiently trained everyone from his sous-chefs down to dishwashers - then promoted them. Rebelling against the rigidity and hierarchy the ship and navy sailed under, he didn't boss, rule-book or micro-manage his crew but stressed the creativity, fun and camaraderie possible in cooking and kitchens. Just as Justine had trained him. "It's your ship - and it's your galley," he'd say over and again.

He'd joined the navy to see the world, as the recruiting pitch went, but mostly he'd seen the inside of a tin can and fired, often unseen, to help save Vietnam from Vietnamese. But whenever one of his ships touched shore for longer than a turn of the tide, there he was ashore, often with his entire galley crew, eating out, learning the local cuisine while watching and chatting up the chefs. Getting a taste of the world. And he liked it.

His time up, he didn't reenlist, disgusted, restless and ready to move on. Plus he wanted a bigger taste of the world. He studied at the Cordon Bleu in Paris, then staged (tried out for a slot) at restaurants in France, Spain and Italy.

Missing the States, but still fascinated by French food, he cooked at Commander's Palace in New Orleans creating all the masterpieces of Creole, Cajun and Southern cuisine; distinctions with real differences, as he patiently schooled me.

His visits home were partly work, cooking those delicious dishes from the Crescent City for the inn's guests - gumbos, etoufees, jambalayas - adapted with local foods: lobster gumbo, crab etouffee, shrimp jambalaya. When Herb was in town during the summers the dining room and the outdoor deck were always packed, with lines waiting out on the lawn.

But he got in plenty of fishing, with most of the catch appearing in the kitchen. Justine adored his stuff and was now the attentive apprentice. Me, I probably gained ten pounds whenever he was around.

One summer he had a few weeks break during the dead season at four star Le Bernardin in New York, where he'd moved after Commander's. They specialize in seafood, of course, so Herb was totally in his element and finally swimming with the biggest of fish. He was living 'The Life' in 'The CIty' and enjoying, probably way too much cocaine-wise, every minute of it while shooting up as a star chef profiled by Bon Appetit and Martha Stewart.

One day during that visit Justine took him aside as he was heading out fishing and said, "Herb, look, I'm thinking about hanging up my hat here. My hearts not in it any more, my bones are tired and my game's gone. Could you take over the kitchen?" Clearly it wasn't a question of could but would.

"To leave New York for what," he thought? "Small seaside inn? Tiny tidewater town? Away from the action? Models, actresses, hot musician chicks? Outstanding blow and blow jobs? A place really on no one's radar?" Lost in time. Lost to his childhood. "To have his own place? Well ... hmm."

"I'll think it over," was all he said.

The inn could always hire another chef. And frankly, easily find someone better than Justine. He loved our mother and she had given him, among other gifts, his career. She was a solid country cook, as mentioned earlier, with a mastery of the Yankee classics but out of her depth beyond that limited range, having had no professional training. Facts are facts. Rightly or wrongly, people expected more these days.

Then he went out fishing and didn't give 'it' another damn thought. Fishing did that to him. On the sea he was lost in another world utterly alien to life on land. Life ashore, its cares, worries and demands, disappeared the second his feet hit the dock. Just anticipating it he would disappear into a trance. I learned long ago never to tell Herb anything when he was headed for his Whaler, it strictly went in one ear and straight out the other.

Back in New York a few months later, while captaining the fish station one Friday evening, Harris called and dropped the sad news that Justine had just died. "And, it was, well, um, while making a Manhattan clam chowder," his voice sputtered and trailed off. Herb nearly dropped the phone into the pot of fish stock that he'd stopped to skim.

"Our mother? Manhattan? Dead? With tomatoes? In Rowley? Oh shit!" He shook his head in disbelief, it was certainly a shock. But he took it like a man, soldiering on through his shift, silently mourning both the loss of Justine and her apparently fatal last minute apostasy.

He blamed himself and shouldered a burden of guilt, for he had let slip that this was the way clams were (mis) treated in Manhattan, even at somewhere as savvy as Le Bernardin. "What possessed me?" And moreover, "why didn't I take mom's wish to retire seriously?"

Now, New York is the undisputed capital of lots of things - advertising, finance, art, publishing, fashion - indeed of capitalism itself. But the clam? No. And modest Rowley, Massachusetts is the capital of one thing only - clams.

Manhattan has no right to couple its name with the clam, much less claim its spurious spawn as chowder. Are there clams in New Amsterdam? Well give thanks to Rowley.

Melville gasses on endlessly about the mighty whale, who declared bankruptcy and went out of business over a century ago, without a word for the humble clam, who hung in there and grew its bottom line year to year.

Humor me here about that clam, with whom the word chowder is inextricably linked in the hungry human imagination. Clam = chowder. Could Newton himself have devised a simpler equation? It's like apple = gravity, or apple = pie, Rowley's other famous harvest by the way.

New Yorkers aren't entirely to blame - or rather New Englanders aren't entirely blameless. The sludgy slops quaintly called 'chowda', whether clam, fish or corn, that are fed to tourists, clueless natives and win cook-offs, from pricey chains like Legal Seafoods down to pier-side clam shacks are almost as bad as the New York version and some are worse. Nothing but bowls of cream with Bac-Os and shredded rubber bands.

Justine, of course, wasn't a Yankee. But still, she'd spent most of her life here, so it's puzzling. It's possible that one can never be a Yankee without being born in New England. Maybe one can't become, one simply is - or not. Or perhaps it's a genetic predisposition, another Y chromosome, say, with its own weird, hardwired encoding.

Thinking of other parts of the country, could one ever claim to be a Southerner, a New Yorker or a Texan without being born and bred in those particular parts? "Hell no!" the good ol' boy, b-boy and cowboy all agree.

Anyway, after Herb hung up the phone and returned to the line at Le Bernardin, he recalled the request from Justine, pushed from his mind until now by the fascinations and furious pace of Manhattan, to take over the Saltmarsh kitchen. He focused his thoughts as plates of fish flew by for his approval, hung up his apron at the end of the night and caught the first Acela north to Boston. For the fishing.

So on this evening, as the wind ceased keening and the fog rolled in sneaking its hungry sea scents through the time-porous house, Herb rolled up with seafood.

"Herb, good to see you sir," Fred said. Beneath the blue uniform his belly growled in welcome as he extended his hand. Everyone knows that food's at hand when Herb's on hand and no one ever leaves unfulfilled.

A chorus of "Hey!", "Hello." and "Howzit goin'?" broke out.

As you can see my brother always amps the party factor. My job as host of this hostel, but no one touches Herb for hospitality. A party professional. Not even that, just - 'it ain't nothin' but a party' when he's around.

"Fred man, good seein ya'. Shirley, long time. Hey Kare (as he calls Karen). Folks, Crystal. Crystal, folks, friends from town."

He gets these girls with the nuttiest names. Crystal, Shadow, China, Meadow, Dory, Mynah and a myriad more players no one recalls rotate in and out of this ever changing cast. Mostly without getting mad or even somehow. As I said, no one ever leaves hungry, or maybe they've simply had their fill.

"Guys, Dave snagged some righteous shrimp today. We gotta grill these big suckas like pronto-mente." No one disagreed. Memory and metaphysics can cool their heels when facing down fresh shrimp.

The Clam, as shellfish inspector, gave his unofficial seal of approval, "Two real ... er, a buncha' real beauties there," he observed as he inspected the bounty of Shadow's barely contained cleavage brimming around the collander of pale pink crustaceans.

I never know what my brother's going to do. No one does. I suspect he himself doesn't most of the time, he lives in the moment for the moment. He's an improviser with serious enough chops to usually pull off whatever swims into his head, which often has to do with whatever's freshest. This keeps our guests fascinated and on edge. The inn's menu changes daily and has one offering, take it or leave it.

There is a kid's menu, however, usually a grilled cheese sandwich, tomato soup, hot dog and a Congo bar with vanilla ice cream. All proven bullet-proof to kid criticism, this lineup will keep any child happy as a clam, which by the way, many of them declare to be 'totally gross'. I won't even tell you what they say about the octopus, jellyfish, squid, brains, liver and kidneys their parents tuck into sometimes.

We have a small separate kids' table off in a corner to accommodate the truly 'grossed out' grousers and leave their parents in peace. Some preempt problems of any sort by simply sending them there when walking in and enjoy a pretend 'date night' while the kids do whatever it is kids do with their iPads. Which involves lots of laughter anyway and leaves their screens ... well, talk about totally gross.

Herb got this idea while traveling through Europe. There would be these little family restaurants along the roadside in Spain and Italy or Greece, seldom with signs out front. You'd walk in, eyes blinking in the cool darkness, the owners greeted and seated you like a long lost friend, brought drinks with tapas, antipasto or meze, and pulled up chairs for an interval of pleasant chat joining one in a sangria, limoncello or ouzo.

"Ah, our cousin Giovanni, a poet of the pots, he has a choice little spot, how you say, 'boite'? In the East Village, which is New York, no? Go, go, you must go - you're neighbors." This to his then girlfriend from Pacific Palisades. Nunzio seemed to have already adopted the New Yorker's view of America. The rest of which lay somewhere out there in a vaguely compressed geography just over the Hudson, a first line of defense against New Jersey, where the corn and sagebrush started.

Then the hosts returned to the kitchen and the meal of the day was served course by course over time at a leisurely pace. No menu, no prices, no orders taken, no substitutions, no explanations proffered unless asked for. In which case a poetic description waxing over the perfection of this or that dish was in order.

That along with its provenance through thoroughly convoluted family lines, some quite contentious. A rundown of the farms, markets and fishermen who had provided the kitchen's bounty. Then a recipe, "Quite simplified of course, I know how busy you Americans are, all men and women with affairs. This can be made in only one day." And finally how the mood of the cook might have affected the outcome, "On this, of all days, when you blessed us with your visit." A heart of stone could not have helped but been charmed by these passionate recitals nor anyone absorbed the flood of loving detail lavished on each dish.

Those little 'mom and pops', as Americans might call them dismissively, were by far and away the best places for serious food. They did one thing and one thing only superbly well every day god's sun shone. That was that and that was enough. Focus was one of the secrets to their success and the deep satisfaction they derived from their family artistry.

"There are clam shacks and pizza joints up and down the coast. You can even go vegetarian in Newburyport; vegan in Ipswich; salt, sugar and fat-free in Essex; gluten-free in Gloucester; low-calorie and cholesterol in Rockport - and totally taste free in Salem," Herb would point out with barely disguised disgust.

He's kind of brash and arrogant - an occupational hazard of chefs, pilots, doctors, ships' captains and all those who wield the power of life and death over other beings. But we're the only real restaurant in town, so it works. Moreover, no one's ever bored, most importantly him. He's always restless and moving on, in the kitchen, out on the water and between the sheets.

Herb chose the largest 'spider' from a set hanging by the chimney, one with a ribbed bottom used especially for making 'spider cakes'. Neither have to do with spiders, although he swept a few out, along with their webs and remains of their victims, from their dark lair into the fire where they sputtered vengefully for a second then vaporized. A spider is a heavy black cast iron pan supported on spidery legs. Spider cakes are made in spiders and aren't cakes at all but what the rest of the country simply calls biscuits. Nothing's simple in New England.

He raked coals from beneath the logs into a low heap off to one side of the hearth and set the spider on top to warm. Patience will take it from here, since I can't stand the heat and stay out of the kitchen. Which jibes nicely with my plan for preserving family peace - separation of powers and plenty of personal space.

"We've become fans of this fireplace style of cooking, which is similar to the campfire cooking you may have enjoyed as a kid - franks, s'mores, pan-fried trout. It all started when Tiny Jr. and Tiny Sr., our plumbers, discovered a cache of antique cookware in the forgotten root cellar below the kitchen while running new pipes during the renovation after Herb returned."

"Several hundred years of kitchenware - pots and pans, kettles, crockery, apple peelers and meat grinders, other patented devices of unknown utility - and a nested set of spiders - were dragged up into daylight again for the first time in decades. These bygone implements, some sand-scoured from thick rimes of rust and patiently re-seasoned, hang from the ceiling and walls of the taproom enjoying a useful unexpected afterlife. Would that we should all be so lucky."

"When the inn was built in the mid-1600's, a huge, and hugely inefficient, brick fireplace was at the heart of every New England home, what with the harsh winters so unlike damply mild England. All of family life happened around the hearth, including the daily cooking all done over open flames or coals, until baking ovens were later added beside the fireplaces."

"And the Saturday bath every week, whether you wanted it or not, to smell sweet for the Lord and his people on the Sabbath," Shirley added. "Just the way it was when I was growing up in our old saltbox on Starfish Lane."


Tales of a Seaside Inn continues with Part Seven, beginning October 1.

Saltmarsh Inn Menus - September 2014


The dinner menu at the Saltmarsh Inn changes daily and features one fixed set of dishes. This keeps things interesting for both the customers, chef and also allows us to serve wonderful food with our small kitchen and staff. Given our style and limitations, we offer no vegetarian, vegan, kosher, gluten-free or no-salt menu items. For those on such diets, the closest options available are in Newburyport or Ipswich, short scenic rides either north or south.

Dinner is served from 5:00 to 8:00 pm, seven days a week. Breakfast, from 6:00 to 8:00 am, consists of: coffee/tea, toasted blueberry or corn muffins with butter and fresh fruit salad. We don't do lunch.

A recipe from the day or comment is included after each menu. Some go into detail, others are simply a list of ingredients with the preparation: braise, saute, ceviche, salad, etc., noted. Clearly, this won't suit some cooks. It should, however, be sufficient for professional or advanced home cooks. Some comments are simply links (with credit line) to the best recipes that we've discovered online. Bon appetit!


September 1 ... Dolmas, grape leaves stuffed with roasted lamb, savory grilled vegetables and rice, Kourtaki retsina, baklava.
Retsina ... This Greek pine resin infused white, or sometimes rose, wine is admittedly an acquired taste and definitely not for solitary drinking. But it pairs brilliantly with foods. Sometimes, depending on your mood and taste for, well, turpentine infused plonk.


September 2 ... Veal marsala over egg noodles, field greens salad, apple strudel, Rhine wine.
Veal Marsala. Courtesy: Gourmet Magazine, March 2002.


September 3 ... Oysters & dirty rice stuffed peppers, stewed hearty garden greens, cherry bell pepper & crab deviled eggs, Moscato d/Asti.
Dirty rice ... Courtesy: 'Real Cajun' by Donald Link. Epicurious, December 2009.

September 5 ... Codfish & cauliflower chowder, sliced heirloom tomato salad w/infused tarragon & cherry bell pepper vinaigrette, white miso & sesame marinated grilled zucchini, Comte & chestnut cornbread sticks, spiced Burgundy poached pears.
Tomato salad ... When you have freshly picked vine ripened garden tomatoes, you've pretty much got it all and there's not much you should or could do to improve your luck. Sliced with good EVO and vinegar (maybe infused) perhaps chopped parsley, basil or oregano, some garlic. Who could want more?


September 6 ... Creole beef Bourginon. Leaf lettuce salad w/citrus vinaigrette. Anadama crostini. Stuffed celery. Maple pecan pie.
Stuffed celery ... Blend together blue and cream cheeses, fold in minced garlic, capers and finely chopped parsley. Stuff celery, cut into three sections per stalk.


September 7 ... Grilled lamb chops. English mint sauce. Rice pilaf with zaatar and toasted pine nuts. Peaches with preserved lemons. Retsina.
Peaches ... Peel the peaches, slice fruit from the stone, toss with chopped strips of preserved lemon. Serve topped with vanilla ice cream.


September 8 ... Spanikopita. Tomato, caper, shallots, herbs and steamed green bean salad. Maple syrup fig jam slushies.
Spanikopita ... This is a 4 star, canonical version of the Greek classic with spinach and feta cheese baked in phyllo pastry. The comments offering variations are excellent - pine nuts, onion, garlic, parsley, lemon, egg, etc. Courtesy of: Gourmet, November 2002.


September 9 ... Steak and kidney pie. Corn on the cob. Harvard beets. Lemon meringue pie.
Harvard beets ... Courtesy: Yankee Magazine.


September 10 ... Saltmarsh Inn 9/10/14 ... Crabmeat, artichoke and avocado salad over chopped arugula and sorrel. Fresh pasta with Parmesan. Charcuterie. Apple strudel.
Salad ... Inspect for and remove shells from lump crabmeat. Break apart into bite-sized pieces, but do not shred (it is precious lump crabmeat after all). Boil artichokes, chop hearts coarsely, reserving leaves for a meal tomorrow (or used canned hearts). Chop avocado coarsely. Slice celery and chop onions. Combine all in a salad bowl. Season with Creole vinaigrette. Serve over mixed chopped arugula and sorrel.


September 11 ... Mussels marinara over linguine with Parmesan. Summer squash soup. Lemony fruit salad.
Squash soup ... Grilled yellow straight neck summer squash, EVO, S&P, butter, shallots, thyme, chicken stock, tahini, Greek yogurt, light miso.


September 12 ... Gruyere cheese souffle, curried shrimp salad, tapenade stuffed mushrooms, lemon frosted poppy seed carrot cake.
Curried shrimp ... Serve over mesclun. Courtesy: Self, May 2008.


September 13 ... Fried clams with lemon coriander aioli. Insalata Caprese. Dirty rice. Concord grape clafouti.
Clafouti ... Courtesy: Epicurious, November 2013.


September 14 ... Grilled marinated flank steaks. Dauphine potatoes. Grilled Caesar salad. Grilled peach melba.

September 15 ... Cioppino, an Italian-American fish stew originating in San Fransisco's North Beach by fishermen from Genoa during the late 1800's. Sourdough bread crostini. Wilted spinach and sorrel salad. Wild strawberry granita.
Cioppino ... Courtesy: Gourmet, March 2002.


September 16 ... Seafood cataplana (Portugese seafood stew). Crostini. Grape and grappa granita.
Seafood cataplana with saffron, vermouth and sorrel ... Courtesy: Gourmet, October 1998.


September 17 ... West Indies codfish cakes with curried lemon aioli. Chopped radicchio, sorrel and endive salad with honey/Dijon vinaigrette. Cheddar cornbread sticks. Lobster tomalli deviled eggs. Orange, Cointreau and coconut salad.
Codfish cakes ... Courtesy: Sue Lau, Food.com (Home of the Home Cook), August 19, 2004.


September 18 ... Lobster bisque. Cornbread sticks. Chopped salad. Maple sugar flan. Rose sangria.
Cornbread sticks ... Courtesy: Pat Neely, Food Network Magazine.

September 19 ... Applewood grilled sea bream (porgies). Braised artichoke hearts over creamed spinach. Panelle (chickpea fritters). Warm caramel apple monkey bread with bourbon hard sauce.
Panelle ... Courtesy: Gourmet, May 2005.

September 20 ... Grilled wild boar sausages. Pennsylvania Dutch potato salad. Zucchini patties. Lobster stuffed mushrooms. Mint and mocha granita. Verdicchio.
Zucchini patties ... Courtesy: Chef Einat Admony of Bar Bolonat, New York. Bon Appetit, September 2014.


September 21Bitter greens ... Salad: shredded endive, sorrel, celery root, broccoli raab, chicory. Vinaigrette: extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, maple syrup, thyme, Dijon mustard, garlic.


September 22, 2014 ... Wild boar and bison hunter's stew. Grilled summer squash steaks with melted buffalo mozzarella. Curried scampi deviled eggs. Limoncello fruit salad.
Fruit salad ... Cantaloupe, oranges, grated fresh coconut, mint, limoncello.


September 23 ... Porter-braised pork shanks with pistachio gremolata. Potato gnocchi. French onion soup. Leaf lettuce salad. Apple fritters with maple/bourbon syrup.

September 24 ... . Grilled shrimp and sausage skewers with smoky paprika glaze. Couscous. Fattoush salad. Grapefruit and lime red sangria.

September 25 ... Shellfish and sausage gumbo served over Lake Pontchartrain dirty rice. Mirliton ceviche. Jalapeno deviled eggs. Apple cider beignets. Hurricanes (Roy Rogers and Shirley Temple versions available for boys and girls).
Hurricanes ... Courtesy: Emeril Lagasse, 2001. Rating: 4/4. Quick, easy and dangerous.
No hurricane party - a get together in the coastal South to ride out a hurricane with good company on higher grounds - would be complete without Hurricanes, a sweet and potent rum relative of the Daiquiri invented in 1940's served in special hurricane lamp-shaped stemware. It is, of course, the signature drink of the French Quarter in New Orleans where it's also served in plastic cups for rambling with up and down Bourbon Street. The password for getting one is "storm's brewin'.


September 26 ... Pork stuffed collards in cherry bell pepper tomato sauce. Cheddar cornbread sticks. Oysters on the half shell with preserved lemon jam. Prune and orange clafouti. Calvados and freshly-pressed cider cocktails.
Jam ... Preserved lemon peel, limoncello, grated lemon zest, ginger preserves.


September 27 ... Havana moon chili over butter beans and basmati rice. Baked cucumber and sauteed sprouts salad with lemon-pecan vinaigrette. Key lime pie. Cuba libres.

September 28 ... Polish pierogis: potato and cheddar, pork and sauerkraut, spinach and feta, beef and broccoli, salt cod and egg, wild mushroom and onion. Borscht. Grilled shrimp stuffed jalapenos.
Pierogis ... Courtesy: Gourmet, February 2001.


September 30 ... Roast beef. Yorkshire pudding. Cauliflower mousse. Roasted potatoes. Chopped salad. 2009 Domaine Galevan Cotes du Rhone L'Esprit Devin.