Sunday, April 27, 2014

Tales of a Seaside Inn - One


Captain Leander Morris, called Cap'n Lee, was a profane old seadog never seen far from the sacred scriptures or a flowing flagon.

"Fear God and beware Fire!", the good captain would admonish all miscreants and slaggards within range of his foghorn bellowing.

His simple but sturdy credo had been forged in storms on the seven seas between being confined to the crow's nest as a child and later lashed to the wheel as master of his own vessel, The Virgin Queen, clawing her off an angry lee shore in the teeth of a fierce gale. These five words are also engraved below the captain's portrait which hangs behind the bar in the Saltmarsh Inn's taproom. They reward a deeper delving below their simple surface and have been the subject of numerous fireside debates among our patrons over the years.

... Captain Leander Morris.

Before tackling fear, fire, faith and so forth, however, a few introductions are in order. Welcome to the Saltmarsh Inn! I'm Harris Morris, captain retired, the current innkeeper. Leander Morris is my great, well a score or so greats before we get to the word grandfather. In the portrait his hands rest firmly on the wheel of The Virgin Queen and to each the eyes seem to be following them alone. They glow angrily or appreciatively according to the course of the conversation, a certain slant of light and the spirits consumed.

A sharp fall night, say. Friends of ours and guests of the inn are gathered around the taproom fireside. Firelight flickers across their faces, casting strange shadows about the room. The lights are out, it's after-hours, the inn is closed. Now, in my lifetime, I've heard more uncommon sense spoken around this hearth than anywhere else in this big wide watery world. Speaking of a slant of light, there are few things more pleasant and illuminating than being seated with friends around a fire.

And by friends, I mean those from the past as well. It's never hard to feel the presence of the past in this old inn by the restless but unchanging sea. The ghosts feel at home here, gazing at us from the darker corners, flitting in the flickering shadows and those consigned to hell peering perhaps through the very flames themselves.

Look, we're all just shadows on a wall. Our ancestors lived out this same scene for centuries. It's all very familiar to them, although our dress and speech may differ. But they understand that and adapt. Clothing and language, the outer manifestations of men, probably changed a lot even in their own brief lifetimes. So there's a haven before the hearth, peaceful but exciting. Time slows in the quiet and we slowly slip back into the past. Time for reflection, to think before we speak, then to hear back what we're actually saying and dwell upon the words of our fellows. We agree to disagree, but never disagreeably. Agreement would be boring anyway. But our disputes are always friendly, however heated.

We can't sell drinks in the after-hours of course, but we can give them away. One anyway, curiously called Smoking Bishop. Aunt Polly Patience, Leander's wife, wrote the recipe with a precise feminine hand in the margins of one of the captain's scrupulously-kept logbooks on a page describing a winter voyage to St. Petersburg. Evidently he adopted it as a sovereign remedy for his crew when venturing into colder climes.

... Aunt Polly Patience Morris.

Wine, as Robert Louis Stevenson, another son of the sea, says is 'bottled poetry'. And Horace notes that no poetry worth a damn was ever made by water-drinkers. Smoking Bishop certainly seems to inspire the tongues of those seated around our fire. And it requires the cheapest of vintages. Almaden, Gallo or any plonk by the gallon will do, won't break the bank and tastes like a million dollars when elevated to Bishop. I usually do the honors, but let's let Aunt Polly patiently school us in the mysteries of making this piping hot, soul-warming nectar.

Smoking Bishop ... Roast slowly rinds of orange or lemon pierced by cloves.
Brew spices in a spider (cast iron pan), kept solely for the said purpose.
Cinnamon, mace, cardamom, allspice, cloves, peppercorns, whatever thou fanciest.
Add sufficient water to satisfy each topers's mug with a few drams.
Bring a-boil, move off flame, simmer. Strain liquor through an old stocking.
Add brew to mug with a thimble of Demerara (sugar). Fill with claret (need not be the best).
Heat pokers on hearth until they gloweth like the devil's own damned pitchfork.
Plunge into a mug. Hold while the wine spits and sputters like Satan himself.
Reheat the poker` upon the hearth and repeat. Ye will taste the very flavor of the fire itself.

Now, settled in front of the hearth with drinks at hand, we're finally fortified to "Fear God and beware Fire!" Our company tonight includes Shirley Loving, our librarian and author of 'Rowley Now & Then', which digs up our long local history, and appears from time to time in The Rowley Reporter, our town's modest bi-monthly newspaper, but the oldest in the nation. Fred Farnham, police chief; and Sam (The Clam) Davis, shellfish inspector and fence surveyor. So half of our town's powers are present. Patience Morris, my sister and manager of Saltmarsh Farm, has also joined us with her son Heath Harris, a tad over the legal age; along with Karen Thomas, a regular guest and minister from Ohio, a traveler but no simple tourist. The wind whips nor'east off the water tonight, whistling down the chimney and shivering the timbers of the old structure.

"Cap'n Lee looks particularly petulant tonight," Shirley observed. "Fear God and beware Fire for sure." We turned together to gaze up at Leander's now-frowning visage.

"Knows damn well we're talkin' 'bout him too, speak o' the devil," said Sam, "clever old coot. Never miss nothin'. Queer that. No offense Harris."

"None taken Clam," I replied using his nickname held in reserve for such moments.

"No, Sam's right, it is kind of uncanny," Patience agreed, a little too quickly I thought, perhaps hearing a note of snideness in my having called him 'Clam'.

Now, I like to think that I generally strike a tone of gentle irony, but it could come off as simple sarcasm. This regrettable tendency towards snarkiness might be cured with a century or so of psychotherapy, probably of the aversive school. So in short, don't count on it, I'm simply your typical Yankee. My sister is of the land, not the sea. She's straight-forward, un-ironic and quietly plain-spoken. Patience is one of those people who 'whisper' animals, from horses to hamsters. A quiet word to the wise in a sow's ear and there's a silk purse of peace made out of warfare in the sty. Patience is nothing if not patient, almost to a fault. A virtue I greatly admire - from afar.

I'm of the sea and can assure you this approach doesn't work aboard ship. In the quiet of a barn, yes, whisper away. Shipboard, however, is a relentless storm of noise: surging seas, howling winds, throbbing engines or slatting sails and squawking radios. Moreover, sailors don't tend to be a breed amenable to subtlety, unlike most animals. A fearful roar is often needed, and sarcasm is absolutely expected from any captain worth his salt who wants to keep command of his crew. A voice which also comes in handy when dealing with the more 'difficult' guests at the inn.


Tales of a Seaside Inn continues with Part Two in May.

Saturday, April 26, 2014

Saltmarsh Inn Menus - April 2014


The dinner menu at the Saltmarsh Inn changes daily and features one fixed set of dishes. This keeps things interesting for both the customers and chef and also allows us to serve wonderful food with our small kitchen and staff. Given our style and limitations, we offer no vegetarian, vegan, kosher, gluten-free or no-salt menu items. For those on such diets, the closest options available are in Newburyport or Ipswich, a short and scenic ride either north or south.

Dinner is served from 5:00 to 8:00 pm, seven days a week. Breakfast, from 6:00 to 8:00 am, consists of: coffee/tea, toasted blueberry or corn muffins with butter and fresh fruit salad. We don't do lunch.

A recipe from the day is included after each menu. They are simply a list of ingredients with the preparation, braise, saute, ceviche, salad, etc., noted. Clearly, this won't suit some cooks. It should, however, be sufficient for professional or advanced home cooks. Bon appetit!


April 1 ... Pan-fried pork chops w/apple cider, rice pilaf w/orzo & pine nuts, collard greens, butter beans, bourbon lemonade.
Bourbon lemonade ... Jim Beam bourbon, Nantucket Nectars lemonade, fresh mint sprigs, ice cubes, tall glasses. Fast & refreshing but potent.


April 2 ... Veal piccata, angel hair pasta, freshly grated parmesan, Caesar salad, garlic bread, key lime pie, Gewurtzraminer.
Veal piccata ... Veal (pounded 1/4" thin), flour, S&P, EVO & butter, dry white wine, chicken stock, lemon juice, capers, garlic, parsley.


April 3 ... Ramen noodles w/ wild mushroom sauce, salade Lyonnaise, caldo verde, devils food cake w/ peppermint frosting, ale.
Salade Lyonnaise ... Frisee, escarole, dandelion greens, arugula, crisp crumbled bacon, runny poached egg (3 minutes), warm vinaigrette.


April 4 ... Tapas!: salt cod fishcakes w/ aioli, stuffed baby artichokes, curried deviled eggs, stuffed mushrooms, gazpacho.
Stuffed mushrooms ... Panko bread crumbs, andouille sausage, onion, garlic, parsley, thyme, toasted pine nuts, extra-sharp cheddar cheese.


April 5 ... Linguine w/ sun dried tomato & roasted cherry bell pepper tomato sauce. Avocado & anchovy chopped green salad.
Chopped green salad ... Avocados, oil-packed anchovies, Kalamata olives, preserved lemons, cucumber, romaine lettuce, lemon vinaigrette.


April 6 ... Shrimp scampi w/ capellini & parmesan, Turkish shepherd's salad, red lentil soup, olive garlic bread, rhubarb tart.
Turkish shepherd's salad ... tomatoes, Persian cucumbers, green Italian frying pepper, red onion, parsley, dill, mint, sumac, Aleppo pepper.


April 7 ... Polish hunter's stew (Bigos), mustard & horseradish, caraway rye bread, Sam Adams Boston lager, blueberry mazurka.
Bigos ... Pork shoulder, wild & cultivated mushrooms, onion, cabbage, ham hock, kielbasa, sauerkraut, beer, peppercorns, caraway, marjoram.


April 8 ... Clambake: clams, shrimp, mussels, lobster, corn, new potatoes, kielbasa; cole slaw, baked beans, brown bread, pies.
Clambake ... The clambake is all local seafood slowly steamed over a bed of seaweed in a large iron cauldron, in which it is also served.


April 9 ... Pasta pulpo (octopus), creamed spinach/sorrel, half-shell oysters, crab/cream cheese stuffed celery, lemon bars.
Stuffed celery ... Cooked crabmeat, cream cheese, shallots, parsley, celery stalks.


April 10 ... Curried cauliflower fettucine alfredo; tomato, cucumber and black olive salad w/pine nut vinaigrette, fruit salad.
Salad ... Cherry & pear tomatoes, seeded/cubed Persian cucumber, Kalamata olives, EVO, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, ground toasted pine nuts.


April 11 ... Stuffed cabbage in cherry bell pepper tomato sauce, purslane & snow peas salad, anadama bread, peach cobbler.
Anadama bread ... all purpose & whole wheat flour, cornmeal, baking powder & soda, salt, buttermilk, dk. molasses, butter, egg, poppy seeds.


April 12 ... New England fish chowder, spring greens salad, loukaniko stuffed wild mushrooms, blueberry pie, Gewurtztraminer.
Chowder ... Salt pork, unsalted butter, onions, thyme, bay leaves, Maine potatoes, chicken stock, S&P, cod or haddock fillets, heavy cream.


April 13 ... Rosemary chicken liver skewers, mashed potatoes & turnips, stewed collard greens, codfish balls, Meyer lemon pie.
Chicken liver skewers ... Chicken livers, milk (to soak), sturdy rosemary sprigs (to skewer livers), unsalted butter, EVO, lemon juice.


April 14 ... Braised lamb shanks; kritharaki (Greek orzo) w/ cherry tomatoes, olives, capers; asparagus w/ lime, Sylvaner wine.
Kritharaki ... EVO, onion, garlic, kritharaki, cherry tomatoes, black olives, capers, oregano, chili flakes, parsley, white wine, parmesan.


April 15 ... Brook trout meuniere, wild mushrooms stuffed w/ wild rice & chorizo, fiddlehead ferns w/ hollandaise, sorrel soup.
Brook trout meuniere or mullerin (miller's wife) ... Speckled brook trout filets with the skin left on, S&P, flour, butter, lemon, parsley.


April 16 ... Portugese kale stew w/ chorizo & cod, cheddar & chili pepper cornbread, sour cherry clafouti, chardonnay sangria.
Portugese kale stew ... Kale, onions, garlic, ham hock, chorizo, soy sauce, ketchup, chicken stock, white wine, water, potatoes, cod fish.


April 17 ... Harissa-marinated steak tips, parsnip & apple puree, brussel sprouts w/ chestnuts, pecan pie, Beaujolais nouveau.
Harissa-marinated steak tips ... Top sirloin steak, EVO, garlic, gold-brown sugar, soy sauce, fresh thyme, harissa sauce (Williams-Sonoma).


April 18 ... Pasta All'Amatriciana (w/ guanciale & pancetta), pecorino romano, spinach salad, Casale del Giglio 'Antinoo' wine.
Spinach salad ... EVO, shallots, baby spinach (sauteed), red wine vinegar, S&P, hard-boiled eggs.


April 19 ... Pho, the Vietnamese noodle and beef soup that's an entire meal in itself; green mango salad, 'ruou can' rice wine.
Pho ... Marrow or knuckle bones, chuck beef, ginger, onions, Vietnamese fish sauce, star anise, cloves, rice noodles, beef sirloin. Garnishes: onion, scallions, cilantro, bean sprouts, Thai basil, Thai bird or serrano chili peppers, lime, black pepper.


April 20 ... Venetian risotto w/ scallops & razor clams, three-bean salad w/ olives, grilled loukaniko, cappuccino souffles.
Venetian risotto with scallops and clams ... from Cantinone Storico, Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy. Wall Street Journal. April 19-20, page D5.


April 21 ... Extra-sharp cheddar cheese enchiladas w/ sour cream, grapefruit guacamole, salsa & chips, margaritas or limeade.
Guacamole ... cilantro, red onion, garlic, cumin, jalapeno, kosher salt, avocados, tomato, fresh grapefruit juice, grapefruit zest.


April 22 ... Pappardelle pasta Bolognese (Mario Batali), jicama & pomegranate chopped salad, garlic bread, fig & citrus salad.
Salad ... Boston lettuce, jicama, pomegranate seeds, Parmesan cheese, creme fraiche, EVO, honey, scallion, apple cider vinegar, S&P.


April 23 ... Grilled kielbasa, macaroni & four cheese, wedge salad, tomato soup w/ tomatillo salsa, lime Jello w/ oranges.
Jello ... lime Jello, thinly sliced oranges, orange zest, dried shredded coconut, whipped cream.


April 24 ... Broiled halibut, baked stuffed tomatoes, coconut creamed spinach, corn on the cob, flan, Trimbach Reisling wine.
Corn on the cob ... In my mother's time, growing up on Saltmarsh Farm, corn was never picked until the pot on the stove was already boiling.


April 25 ... Jamaican curried goat stew, low country rice pilaf, green apple coleslaw, snapper limbos, Smoking Bishop.
Smoking Bishop ... The recipe is described in Tales of a Seaside Inn #14.


April 26 ... Down East lobster rolls, Cobb salad, New England clam chowder, crostini, peppermint & chocolate chip ice cream.
Lobster rolls ... Lobster meat, finely chopped celery & shallots, Hellman's mayonaise, S&P, toasted buttered hot dog roll, lemon wedge.


April 27 ... Pintxos (a selection of a dozen Basque tapas), white gazpacho, garlic toasts, flan, strawberry & peach sangria.
RECIPE!


April 28 ... Grilled porgies, Caprese salad (w/ ripe hothouse tomatoes & fresh mozzarella from Saltmarsh Farms), pommes Anna.
Caprese Salad (insalata Caprese) ... Vine-ripened tomatoes, water buffalo mozzarella, wild arugula, fresh basil, dried oregano, EVO, S&P.


April 29 ... Dolmas (Greek stuffed grape leaves), avgolemono (lemon egg-drop soup), Greek salad, maple baklava, retsina wine.
Dolmas ... Grape leaves, ground lamb, EVO, rice, pine nuts, garlic, onions, olives, thyme, mint, rosemary, red & hot peppers, tomato sauce.


April 30 ... Warm chili, grouper, conch & shrimp ceviche; spinach & sorrel soup, monkey bread, Mai Tai sorbet.
Mai Tai sorbet ... pineapple juice, peach-passion fruit nectar, guava nectar, dark rum, sugar, grenadine, lime juice, pineapple wedges.


Friday, April 25, 2014

Taproom Thoughts - April 2014


Taproom Thoughts are posted daily over the bar of the Saltmarsh Taproom at the Inn in an attempt to stimulate some conversation beyond the usual chatter about the current dismal/hopeful state of those bums/heroes, the Boston Red Sox. Not that we don't love us some Sox too. After all, this could be the year. So anyway, how about them Sox?


Winston Churchill (WW II Prime Minister, statesman & writer, English, 1874-1965) ... If you're going through hell, keep going.


Tennessee Williams (playwright, American, 1911-1983) ... All cruel people describe themselves as paragons of frankness.


Henry David Thoreau (author of 'Walden', American, 1817-1862) ... An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.


Lao Tzu (philosopher & poet, founder of Taoism, Chinese, Zhou Dynasty 6th century BC) ... Silence is a source of great strength.


Charles Schulz ('Peanuts' cartoonist, American, 1922-2000) ... I love mankind; it's people I can't stand.


Horace (poet, Roman, 65-8 BC) ... No poems can please for long or live that are written by water drinkers.


A.A. Milne (author, English, 1882-1956) ... Golf is so popular simply because it is the best game in the world at which to be bad.


Anton Chekov (playwright, doctor, Russian, 1860-1904) ... If you are afraid of loneliness, do not marry.


Chanakya (politician, Indian, 350-275 BC) ... A person should not be too honest. Straight trees are cut first, honest people screwed first.


William Burroughs (writer, American, 1914-1997) ... Language is a virus from outer space.


Mark Twain (novelist, American, 1835-1910) ... Wagner? It's not as bad as it sounds.


Frank Lloyd Wright (architect, American, 1867-1959) ... An architect's most useful tools are an eraser at the drafting board, and a wrecking bar at the site.


Robert Louis Stevenson (writer, Scottish, 1850-1894) ... Old and young, we are all on our last cruise.


Lucille Ball (comedian, American, 1911-1989) ... If you want something done, ask a busy person to do it.


Martin Luther (theologian & monk, German, 1483-1546) ... You are not only responsible for what you say, but also for what you do not say.


Samuel Johnson (author, English, 1709-1784) ... Bachelors have consciences, married men have wives.


Gore Vidal (novelist, American, 1925-2012) ... Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn.


Winston Churchill (PM, English, 1874-1965) ... The best argument against democracy is a five minute conversation with the average voter.


Albert Einstein (physicist, German, 1879-1955) ... The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.


Michel de Montaigne (philosopher, French, 1533-1592) ... A good marriage would be between a blind wife and a deaf husband.


G. B. Shaw (playwright, Irish, 1856-1950) ... I learned long ago, never to wrestle with a pig. You get dirty, and besides, the pig likes it.


Meb Keflezighi (Marathon winner) ... This is probably the most meaningful victory for an American, just because of what happened last year.


Alexander Hamilton (statesman & politician, American, 1755-1804) ... Those who stand for nothing fall for anything.


Ernest Hemingway (novelist, American, 1899-1961) ... The best way to find out if you can trust somebody is to trust them.


Audrey Hepburn (actress, Belgian, 1929-1993) ... I believe in kissing, kissing a lot. And being strong. Happy girls are the prettiest girls.


Christopher Morley (actor, American, 1890-1957) ... No one appreciates the very special genius of your conversation as much as any dog does.


Confucius (philosopher, Chinese, 551-479 BC) ... I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand.


Marilyn Monroe (actress, American, 1926-1962) ... Sex is a part of nature. I go with along with nature.


Jane Austen (novelist, English, 1775-1817) ... There is nothing like staying at home for real comfort.